I know for me this body probably won't work in the video they say its was designed for high down force in the front which will just make me nose dive

I thought that I would post this up for the guys running both the VTX8 and Pro4 and Pro4HD combo in the Tekno SCT410.

This is a good place to start:

Use profile 3 for 4wd SC

Brake:
Strength - 100% (dial out EPA at the transmitter)
PWM - 12000Hz (the higher the value the more heat you will build in the ESC, but the smoother the brakes will feel. I have NO issues with heat on this esc with that value. I run mine quite a bit less, but I use the M11X's ABS feature which in my opinion is AWESOME!
Curve - Linear (adjust at the transmitter)

Throttle:
Punch - 60% on loose tracks 75% on highbite (I'm finding that this is the single best way to obtain tracktion outside of changing tires.) with Pro4 add 5% to start with. For me anything more than 75% is just going to ruin tires.
THR PWM - 24000Hz (the higher the value the more heat you will build in the ESC, but the smoother the throttle will feel. Again, I have no problems with heat with this setting.
Curve - Linear (adjust at the transmitter)
Deadband - narrow

Misc Control:
Run Mode - race blinking
Motor Direction - normal
Motor type - 4 pole
SBEC Voltage - check what your servos are rated for. I run 6.2V as my servos are only rated for 6V, but I'm just pushing them a bit harder.
Forward Power - 100%
Reverse Power - N/A

Protection:
Battery Cut Off - 6.4V ( as long as you are over 6.2V you are safe, but I'm not taking chances. Protek 7000 mah 100C batteries are $140, so I don't want to push it too the limit. I can run a 10 min main with a practice lap with no issues as long as my punch and brake are turned down.
Motor Cut - 230F
ESC Cut - 220F

I hope that helps!

~Grimm

Anybody else have a hard time putting the ends on the turnbuckles, I had to use 2 pliers and I feel it's going to be a pain to adjust on the truck, other then that build is great so far, much better and smoother then my old scte 2.0

I sent my indoor setup over a month ago.

I think they're just super busy promoting right now with the outdoor season culmination.

Yes. Thats good tho, means it wont pull out easily. If you have a good turnbuckle wrench its not so bad.

They are the most stubborn I've seen. But if you put some ChapStick or bearing lube or something on the threads it's not as bad as dry.

When I built mine I set the lengths per the manual and saw before I even installed them that they were going to be way too short. I think the manual is building for a inside while on the upright and I was using the outside hole.
Assembled anyway since they were equal I didn't want to mess with them. Once I got a few cranks out on them they were easier to turn and not bottomed out.
I use a setup station so I was just using the manual lengths as a starting point to adjust from once assembled.

it would be great if tekno and this truck were to be included in the petitrc.com setup database... probably the only car company that dosnt have a spot on that site.

What station are you using? I have been contemplating buying the Integy (I know, I know but there are some good reviews on it) since it will do all offroad cars with different adapters. I dont think I could justify something like the Hudy since it is so expensive and limited in what platforms it can work on.

I actually use my 10 year old Hudy 1/10 tc station
Can't use the toe plate, the camber plates are not tall enough to clear any offroad shock tower.
Same size axle shaft as my old Mugen tc and very accurate with the Hudy setup board.
I used to use it on my sc10 4x before I sold it.

I do really miss the accuracy of the toe and end point adjustment the toe plate gives, been thinking about picking a offroad one up (and it would be Hudy regardless of price).

I found that ease of adjustabillity later you should bottom out all of the ends when building, then when you adjust later it will be easier to move.

anyone got a good link explaining using the integy setup station? I got one sitting here for awhile now, I probably should use it lol

Use the Hudy guide, same method and you have it. Set height, set camber, set toe. Accurately know bump steer.
Did you get a board? If not you need one. The gauges need to have the least amount of stiction under them to get a good reading. A piece of Masonite or whatever that's perfectly flat and the Hudy board sticker on top (slickery part of the equation). Or a Hudy board for lots of $$$ if you don't mind the cost.

You gotta at least give it a go. Just pull the wheels off, slap the plates on and give it a peep even if your doing it on a glass table or whatever till you get a board together. I wouldn't have been able to resist, you have it for a year or something now? That would be burning a hole in my pocket if it would fit

lol, its been like that long. does a good job holding up another box on top of it lol.

Yea I kind of figured its probably just a tight fit for now but it'll break in, I'll try backing the links out then back in again, other then that I can't believe how smooth everything is going together compared to my other sct build, you guys weren't lying

I posted this trick a while ago.. use a cordless drill to run the link in and out a few times. Hold the plastic end with a hex driver through the metal eye. Chuck the link in the drill, and run it in and out. Make sure the direction is correct. Remove the plastic end, and do the same for the other side-changing drill direction, of course. Put some lube on the threads, then install the ends. Makes for easy adjusting later. Make sure you dont drive the link too deeply .