Team Associated B4.2 Thread
#8326
I run the ballast weight in my car, also 7grams in each of the front and rear traingles---full battery reedy 5500...for what it worth..
Last edited by brian cox; 08-18-2013 at 09:28 AM. Reason: spelling
#8327
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,168
From: SoCal
Does anyone ever mess with anti squat? I'm getting close on my setup by trying to get just a little more mid/exit steering. Trick is I don't want to loose any rear bite. My set up is basically Hartsens stock nats set up other than running kit arms in back, the c hub with the u brace shaved and 30 wt in the back. The only weight I'm running is the ballast. Trying to avoid just adding weight sine I'm running blinky.
#8328
Does anyone ever mess with anti squat? I'm getting close on my setup by trying to get just a little more mid/exit steering. Trick is I don't want to loose any rear bite. My set up is basically Hartsens stock nats set up other than running kit arms in back, the c hub with the u brace shaved and 30 wt in the back. The only weight I'm running is the ballast. Trying to avoid just adding weight sine I'm running blinky.
#8330
Does anyone ever mess with anti squat? I'm getting close on my setup by trying to get just a little more mid/exit steering. Trick is I don't want to loose any rear bite. My set up is basically Hartsens stock nats set up other than running kit arms in back, the c hub with the u brace shaved and 30 wt in the back. The only weight I'm running is the ballast. Trying to avoid just adding weight sine I'm running blinky.
The best way I've found to get more steering coming out of a corner is being slightly less aggressive with the throttle. That said, I'm not that good with my trigger finger
. To help with it, I add a little anti-squat (reduces weight transfer to the rear on acceleration). I currently change from 3*-4* depending on the traction (moisture).
#8334
tried the r4 chassis with inline electronics. it actually worked pretty good initially. But in the main on my b4 and my 4x4, the track seemed to have a few seriously slick areas. I had a decent finish and plan to give the t4 chassis a few more weeks. I really noticed a lot more high speed stability out doors. I expected it to really suck in the 180's, but it was actually pretty good. It also seemed more stable if I cased the double triple. I think the longer chassis made it more stable, but the inline electronics let it still rotate well. my weight was 1515g with the shorty, I also removed the rear ballast, but left the weight in the triangles. Anyway, just a little info for you outdoor racers that want a little more stability.
#8335
Overall it performs well. My experience I think it has a little more steering than the Finnisher.
#8336
Hideeho
The best way I've found to get more steering coming out of a corner is being slightly less aggressive with the throttle. That said, I'm not that good with my trigger finger
. To help with it, I add a little anti-squat (reduces weight transfer to the rear on acceleration). I currently change from 3*-4* depending on the traction (moisture).
The best way I've found to get more steering coming out of a corner is being slightly less aggressive with the throttle. That said, I'm not that good with my trigger finger
. To help with it, I add a little anti-squat (reduces weight transfer to the rear on acceleration). I currently change from 3*-4* depending on the traction (moisture).
#8340
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 464
From: Central California
Finally built my shocks. Was a little worried after reading about some of the issues experienced by others. However, the build went great. No problems. Actually, I think they are the easiest shocks I have built yet. Perhaps AE has corrected some of the issues. Everything fit well and I see no signs of leaking. I just took my time and used green slime on the o rings. They seem to be nice and smooth, I am happy with how they turned out.



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