lodhammerdin,

I'd say for setup match what the top guys have set and make adjustments as needed. As for what to change, Ball Cups is an option. Stock are ok but I detest slop, especially in the steering) so I went with the TLR Ball Cups and studs because I find them to have the most precise fit and finish and are extremely robust. Stock turnbuckles are excellent but Lunsford and JConcepts might be a tad better. Some of the Yaiba parts are really nice but not necessary as this car is excellent right out of the box.

High-End thrust and diff balls is something to consider though the stock ones are perfectly fine.

As for traction conditions at your local track, you'll need to experiment and learn as you go but being that it's an 8th scale track, be careful because I've found 8th scale tracks love to beat up 10th scale buggies for lunch. Went to my local 8th scale club Wednesday night and broke my T4's left front arm landing smoothly on a small, high speed triple you need to turn into as soon as you land. My buddy's 44.2 suffered the exact same break on the same jump. I'd also recommend when you go buy more wheels, go with AKA if you can help it. Having owned them all, I find they are the best quality wheel available.

Thanks for your input. Thats kinda what I was going to do with the setup but I cant find anything thats for a bumpy, low traction surface. As for ballcups, have you used the rpm long ones? I've used those on my sc and no issues with them popping off.

As for diff and thrust balls, ordered some ceramic ones this morning.

As tires go, the only tire I've ever gotten to work there is proline calibers. I boght alot more tires to try out though so we will see what happens. Not really a JC fan but I've heard that goosebumps work on a track like mine.

Thanks for your help.

Yea I'm looking to run -1 as well. I mean -5. It's a ton of camber.

I have RPM Ball Cups on all my cars but as robust as they are they contributed a great deal to the slop in my steering. When I had my 22 I noticed that there was less play everywhere on the car (aside from the terrible slide-rack steering system) and still having over 50 studs and cups, I decided to give it w whirl and instantly my steering tightened up substantially. I'd say it removed upwards of 65% of it and the little slop I have left is due to the rack itself which I'm going to modify for precision movement and swap out the studs and ball cups.

Tom, I really thought you were crazy until I went and raced saturday. I too broke a tower landing a huge tripple in the flat. I was amazed because I have been racing this car a while now and that has never happened. Maybe it is the kit tower because on my last kit I built it broke pretty quick as well. Replaced it once and it never broke again. I guess you could say its still my fault for landing flat in the flat.

Where on the tower is it breaking? I've never had one break on me *knock on wood*

ordered the new RPM a-arms, anyone else got them mounted up and have opininos no them?

with a bit of luck, i'll have them in a few hours at the track

Just before the shock mount holes. About 2mm away from the shock mount on the inside of the tower. It wasn't a wreck either just a hard landing.

I don't have to have that happening , smooth as silk ...

Nice!

So, for loose blown out conditions, not the clay stuff, what is the setup on AE sites that works well?

Wish we could just get real rear tower to fix the shock issues on this car. Tired of having to make one every time I break one.

It just seemed it was bending it at an angle. But I fixed it since now I just the A hub mounted on the rear of the hub, no spacers at the bottom of the shock and I spaced it out more at the top so now it compresses straight

That seems really weird, especially since you didn't land on your lid

I don't seem to need to do all that, all works nice and smooth no binding or rub .

I use the factory's recommended shim's however ...
maybe that's why ?

Been using 2 x.030 stud washer's on the bottom shock eye , other wise rubbing happens for me .