Why the 2 hole caster block? I must have missed some discussion of this. I have the three hole.

It's a stiffer material and the hinge pin holes are drilled vs molded. In high traction they can quicken steering feel but it's all subjective.

yeah, I replaced my front arms because I was breaking them and my front end was like new tight. no binding but zero slop. it was pretty twitchy, after 2 weekend I have a good amount of slop and it feel better. The car needs to break in.

dirka dirka dirka. Well, you obviously dont want a stiff setup. But too soft will just over roll and break the rear end loose. I have never used the avid pistons, so i cant really comment. I would try the 1.4x3's and the 1.7's. you lose pack with the 1.7's but your jumps are not very large. since you should have the 1.7's in your box, I would try them with 35/32 oils and go from there. the 1.4x3's for me, feel like they are in between the 1.6 and 1.7 in feel. Conversely you use oils that are in between those pistons also. your track is loose, bumpy in spots and not in the best shape. I would soften it up. if you can barely turn the wheel and the rear breaks out, try a stiffer front spring. I tried springs that were softer than the AE green up front and it was just too twitchy. I think the green is a 3.15 stiffness. So try and avid equivalent. if you let of a little and the rear whips around, then you are moving to much weight too fast to the front wheels. if you give it a little gas and it wont steer, then the rear is too soft. stiffen the rear a little or maybe even go up in anti squat a little. I normally leave it a 2, but my track are better groomed. you want tpo ge the right balance of front and rear dampening. I recently tried brown front and black rears because a local suggested it...... lol. it was WAY to extreme from me, kinda like what your talking about, off power steering it would swap end and on power I had no steering. so I went green/green and spring and honestly it feel better than any other combo. I tried the whites in the rear which are 2.10 I think and they were terrible. for me the green/rear is the most balanced spring configuration for the track I run on and if I go indoors, the 2.10 rear springs help with steering.

It sounds like you went the wrong direction with the springs. You really should try the Greens front and rear or try Avid Red front White rear. Those Yellow Avid rears are basically equal to the grey AE springs and the only place I've seen those used is on REALLY high traction surfaces, ie sugared tracks.

That car looked like it needed some 0.5* hubs on the rear, that track was soo loose..

I tried blue fronts yesterday and was not a fan. It took an appreciable amount of steering away from the car. Greens are the ticket here IMO.

Front foam is more of a driver preference. I like 3/4 open cell foam, but they tend to deteriorate quickly and become inconsistent at the end of the straight into the sweeper. You can be more aggressive with the closed cell inserts. Try both! You can cut open the sidewall with a fresh exacto blade if you want to swap foams in the same set.

Went the wrong direction in the rear? I went softer from the stiffest spring. Had been running red in the rear which is 2.24.

So you're saying go stiffer in the front and even softer in the rear? Red in the front is 3.33 or similar to AE white. The AE green (3.15) is in between the Avid Red and Yellow (3.33 and 2.95).

How do the hubs affect rear toe differently than the pin blocks? I'm running 3.5 deg of toe in the rear and 2 deg of anti squat. Have the 4 deg pin block and that was going to be the next change I woul dhave made had it not hooked up a bit better in the late heat.

For reference I qualified 8th and battled for 3rd in the main...wound up 4th.

You said everyone said Avid Red/Yellow, I thought you might have the colors wrong F/R.

If you have the Avid sets I'd try red front and white rear. That's about as close to Green/Green as you'll get. If it still is hard to drive try the Purple front. Get the car to the point that it is had to get it to turn and then back off until you have enough steering and can lay down the power.

Ryan's suggestion of +.5 or +1 hubs might be a good idea if the track is always loose too.

Read this thread on inboard vs outboard toe:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...board-toe.html

Ok thanks. As I asked Ryan - how do the hubs affect toe differently than the pin blocks?

Edit: just saw your latest post. So maybe these:http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ar-Hub-Carrier

My standard recommendation is red front / yellow rear. For indoor or low grip, you can go down to yellow front/ white rear. Also I've tested the AE springs and even if the rates seem close, they use heavier wire so the handling isn't the same. I would say that AVID red fronts work the closest to AE green fronts.

My impressions comparing the Avid spring against the Ae 12mm spring


Avid feel springier , makes the car more reactive .
The Ae spring feels more stable...

Not claiming one is better , I use both .

specially like the Avid on my B44.

Ok so I'm going to drop down another spring on the back and keep the yellow on the front. Two questions for you kdub: why yellow front/white rear indoors? The indoor track I race at has WAY more traction than the outdoor track in question currently. Where would you start the pistons for a loose, blown out 1/8 scale track? I stated in one of the other posts but I have the stock pistons as well as the AVID 1.5+1.1 and 1.6+1.1..also happy to purchase something else...like the 1.4x3 if they would be better for these conditions.

For anyone considering an ESC shelf, Yaiba Racing has just released their own version which has some neat features not offered by anyone else:http://www.rctech.net/forum/tresrey-...g-forum-6.html

Also, Tresrey/Yaiba is doing another giveaway. If you like free stuff, check out their thread and post up what you want. You just may win it!