Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated B4.2 Thread >

Team Associated B4.2 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree4Likes

Team Associated B4.2 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-15-2013 | 07:50 AM
  #8176  
Grasschopper's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,647
From: Central PA
Default

Originally Posted by the big rc
What rear hubs are you using? I would switch to the A hubs and then raise the inside ball stud one MM. That should help lock it in. You could also move your rear bottom shock position out, but it wont jump as well and might push a tad.
Ah...A hub hole B and 2mm spacer on a shaved U brace hole 1. If I'm on the power I feel like I have no steering, I let off and then add power and spin out so I go REALLY easy on the trigger to keep the rear end composed and I'm slow. If by rear hubs you didn't mean A, B, C then 0 deg FT alloy hubs.

In the main traction was NO issue, I could really throw it into that corner at the end of the straight for instance with no fear of the rear end coming loose but I think that is because the traction of the surface totally changed. I would post that video but the corner is far away and it was dark so you can hardly see the car.
Grasschopper is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 07:53 AM
  #8177  
Grasschopper's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,647
From: Central PA
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I think they should run the worlds on the track. It looks pretty consistent to me. Consistently bad, lol. I love the rooster tails. Anyway, all of the cars look loose, but yours is super loose. When we run daytime racing (night time now), it can get pretty bad on traction. I cant even punch it on a 17.5 and you guys are running mod. You might just have to deal with crappy qualifiers and set the car up for main if traction normally comes up. All I can say, your track makes me grateful for mine, lol.

As far as setup stations go. I dont think a lot of people use them in off road. I sometimes pull off of my linkages and use my calipers and measure them to make sure they are the same and when I make adjustments, I count hour many turn and make sure I do the same to both sides. That is about it.
I am constantly ticked that I'm one of the few that can't make the front double double consistently...I just don't have the traction to clear it. I think that's the issue anyway. The announcer actually said before heat 3 that the guys doing it were consistently 3 sec per lap faster than those that weren't.

I did find out that the fast guys are using ProLine Calibers and ordered a set to try out. FWIW I tried different tires for each heat and in pre race practice. AKA Impact don't work at all, PL Tazers worked last time at this track but not this past week, best tire that I had were JCon FlipOuts.
Grasschopper is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 07:56 AM
  #8178  
Arigato's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 631
From: 'Vegas Baby!
Default

I try to bring a set of wheels with no tires to the track. It's more accurate to set toe and camber this way.
Arigato is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 07:58 AM
  #8179  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (39)
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 601
From: Hiram, GA
Default

Originally Posted by Jmuck69
I use a ride height gauge and camber gauge to set the suspension. Then make final adjustments using calipers to make sure the left camber rod matches the right and so on. Keep it simple, this is not formula 1.
What ride height do you run? I haven't used a gauge, just set it the "front arms level, rear driveshafts level" way.
06meanstreak is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:03 AM
  #8180  
Venom1836's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 572
From: Florida, USA
Default

Originally Posted by DanielC.
Yup, or pressure point green rears work really well too. Try both to see which you prefer. Closed cell inserts all around.
What about Blue barcodes front with blue pressure point rears.... I am trying to get a little longer life!

And I thought most did 3/4 rear foam for the front of 2WD?

Thanks so much!!
Venom1836 is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:06 AM
  #8181  
Wild Cherry's Avatar
Tech Legend
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Default

I use a set of calibers to help set my toe & camber like Jmuck, keeps it all even and car steer's the same either direction .

I even wrote down the size of each Ti rod with the ball end on.

When I change out ball ends I can achieve the perfect alinement easily & quick..


If you use the A hub ?

Also remember to include .060 shim under the stud if you are using a shaved U brace .
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:06 AM
  #8182  
Grasschopper's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,647
From: Central PA
Default

Originally Posted by 06meanstreak
What ride height do you run? I haven't used a gauge, just set it the "front arms level, rear driveshafts level" way.
That is about right...most setups I've seen run 24/24 or 24/23 (f/r). I assume by going to 23 in the back will lean the weight transfer more to the rear and increase traction? I didn't go that route but could be an option.

Back to springs, I see that you guys running AE springs are all talking about using the green springs and see that in a lot of Pro setups. Back in the fall when I got the Avid springs I was hearing yellow front and red rear. In terms of spring rate this is 2.95 in the front and 2.24 in the rear. I switched to yellow in the rear and it seemed to help but again that could have been the track too. The Avid yellow rear is 2.10, AE green are 2.00.
Grasschopper is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:09 AM
  #8183  
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,412
Default

I just built a new buggy and having trouble getting it to run the same as my old buggy. Running the same gear and setup the buggy is ultra twitchy. Not sure what I over looked or if I just need to wait a couple track days for it to break in. Really frustrating.
chevmaro is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:10 AM
  #8184  
Grasschopper's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,647
From: Central PA
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
If you use the A hub ?

Also remember to include .060 shim under the stud if you are using a shaved U brace .
I posted it up on this page...yes A hub, 2mm spacer under the stud at the U brace.

I will measure all of the turnbuckles with calipers this evening and see where I'm at.
Grasschopper is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:11 AM
  #8185  
Grasschopper's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,647
From: Central PA
Default

Originally Posted by chevmaro
I just built a new buggy and having trouble getting it to run the same as my old buggy. Running the same gear and setup the buggy is ultra twitchy. Not sure what I over looked or if I just need to wait a couple track days for it to break in. Really frustrating.
As you can see from my posts I'm probably not the best person to ask but that is what I've been told...B4 needs to break in and become sloppy for it to work best.
Grasschopper is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:16 AM
  #8186  
Jmuck69's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 5,061
From: Atlanta, GA.
Default

Originally Posted by Grasschopper
As you can see from my posts I'm probably not the best person to ask but that is what I've been told...B4 needs to break in and become sloppy for it to work best.
Loose and sloppy, like my women.
Jmuck69 is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:18 AM
  #8187  
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,412
Default

My old car was SOOO GOOOD I don't even know why I bothered getting a fresh kit.

Let's talk about ways to make it less twitchy. Overall steering and traction is ok. A little on the loose side but its the super fast steering that is bothering me.
chevmaro is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:19 AM
  #8188  
Jmuck69's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 5,061
From: Atlanta, GA.
Default

Originally Posted by chevmaro
My old car was SOOO GOOOD I don't even know why I bothered getting a fresh kit.
The B4.2 is twitchy when new, it needs to develop some slop and then it's golden. Usually 1 full race day.
Jmuck69 is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:20 AM
  #8189  
Grasschopper's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,647
From: Central PA
Default

Originally Posted by Jmuck69
Loose and sloppy, like my women.
Can you comment on where you would start with the shock package for a track like the one in my video in post 8170? http://www.rctech.net/forum/12449681-post8170.html

I'm running Avid Batch2 BB SPrings and 2+2 pistons...have both 1.5+1.1 and 1.6+1.1. Totally willing to buy other pistons and of course have the stock AE pistons.
Grasschopper is offline  
Old 08-15-2013 | 08:20 AM
  #8190  
Wild Cherry's Avatar
Tech Legend
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Default

A new ride is way better & faster then a old worn out one ...


My ride does not develop mass slop
even after many weeks of racing ..

use 1m spacers on the rear hub & tap in some grub screws ...

2 hole 30 degree caster block for the front

Carbon arms
Avid steering bell crank

Vision Racing steering rack
Wild Cherry is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.