I am used to running 30K as the low end for diff fluid in monster trucks, but quickly noticed most people run between 5-15K in their center diffs in the 1:8 buggy class. I might try the 30K in the center and see what happens...

Sooo is Proline ever going to come out with a bulldog for the EB-48?

Buggy is dialed...grabbed a used one and threw a ballpark setup on it for the RCPro series this weekend. got the TQ/Win with it. had a nasty crash when trying to James Stewart a triple. which is what I typically do with a half a track lead anyway didnt break or bend anything at all. super impressed.

Congrats!!

I ran a medium outdoor this weekend. Had my temp gun and checked it after 10 minutes. I run 7/10/3. My diff was HOT and the out drives...I finger touched them, mistake.160-170. I never really noticed it but i don't think it will be an issue. I have a first run kit and haven't missed a week with it. I rebuild my diff the same every month. I'm still running on the same center. I don't like it knowing that they get that hot but I'm still running. On another note.
When I get a section were i can get on it sooner or later i have to check my brakes up...I get a semi loud snap. Ive looked everywhere for the problem and i cant find it. Iv'e replaced my pinion gears, out drives, cvd, spur, diff housing bearing, diff bearings, front diff housing. Is this chassis slap when i hit my brakes? I dont think it is. Any ideas?

would a DS1015 servo be enough for steering?

yes

Yes the DS1015 works great in1/8th buggies .....

any suggestions on a setup. I am still struggling with mine

I'm sure we'll here more about this once people actually start checking their diff temps, more than likely it's something that no ones pays attention to unless they touch it!

Anyone experiencing hot diffs ever tried testing it without the washers for the O-rings?
it seems like the pins on the washer, that goes through the outdrive will have the most friction.
i'm thinkin if you run it for a while without a washer, the pin will wear a small groove in the diff and free up some clearance for the washer later..
Maybe I will try and build one without washers and O-rings or bearings, fill it with aluminum polish paste and break it in with the ol' hand and drill. that'll make everything in there slicker than owl sh!%..

Every center diff on every vehicle creates heat. Creating heat in the center diff is inevitable. How hot depends on many factors. Track conditions, traction level, driving style, ambient temperature, build method, etc. all affect this.

Suzuki, if you have the older style diff cross-pins (not slotted on the ends) and gears, this could explain some of the higher temps. The new diff cross-pins (TKR5149) and gears (TKR5150) are smoother and don't allow the mesh to change internally. They still heat up, but not as much as the older style parts.

That said, in nitro and long electric runs, 160-170 is totally normal for a diff. 190-200 is on the high side, but if your diff is smooth and you've checked the internals, then you're probably fine. Make sure you are filling the diffs up all the way with all of the gears installed, then wipe off excess fluid and install the spur gear. Running without enough fluid can lead to a hotter diff. Make sure your outdrives are properly greased and smooth. If they are binding or otherwise not allowed to spin freely in the sleeve, this will make the diff heat up. Hope this helps.

Sounds like you might need to shim the gears closer together inside the bulkhead.

My center Diff was built with the new style gears and pins, the outdrives / orings had enough grease and fluid was to the top of the gears. I'm glad to hear 160-170 is normal though and I assume this would be the same for the front and rear Diff? My biggest concern would be too much heat distorting/melting the center diff case. I'm going to try 15K again and maybe see if I can't smooth out things with my trigger finger / ESC to see if that helps lower the diff temps, if not 30K in the center will get a shot. Thanks again for the response TEKNO RC

NP. BTW, Front and rear diffs won't get nearly as hot as the center. The center is the main thing holding the drivetrain together. Without it, the power of the current brushless motors and batteries would be destroying drivelines . So it takes the bulk of the abuse.

Definitely put in some current limiting. The only time I wouldn't run 50% limiting is if there was a big jump with very little run-up. Even then, I would only dial it back until I could make it. But yeah, current limiting is your friend. You could also try a mechanical clutch (TKR4301X) if you've got some nitro know-how.