that layout is awesome. Tons of rhythm needed to go fast.

this track is about 35-40 miles from my house, but its all highway and only takes 25 mins or so. Yeah, the car felt great. I ended up running m4 suburbs in the rear and green groovies in the front. I tried barcodes in the front and I really didnt like them. Many of the guys run green rips up front, but I didnt have any and the groovies felt fine. I had plenty of steering. I left my setup the same as when I run outdoors. Thats what I like about the b4, same setup everywhere. Maybe just a ballstud washer.

they probably put in some of the most challenging layouts. That far left double as the camera facers is harder than it looks. There is only a 6 inch hump to downside on. Too fast and miss it and you slide into the wall, too slow and rear wheels catch and you flip. Rook me about 5-6 packs to start getting the speed right, but then once pressure was on me, I started miss timing it, lol. I finished 5th and qualified 6th. The winner was Humpty Helms a local sponsored driver. he was in the all orange.

Alright I have a newb question and searching isn't bringing answers. I bought my b4.2 second hand and it did not come with ballast. People are running 7g and I'm chasing set ups but can't seem to find a place to buy the weight. Thanks in advance for the help.

Here ya go!
PN 7488

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ballast-Weight

You are in direct violation of the James Stewart rule. If you run a pink body, you should be putting laps on second place. You might want to try bright orange or bright green.

The chassis and shocktower will be AlMg4.5mn hard anodized, cut with a cnc-laser. It's a very cheap and easy processable metal, i'm not sure if it is hard enough to prevent bending. It's stainless and used mostly in container ships and military ships for everything that doesn't need to resist great forces.

Are you planning on trying to sell them cheaper than the c4.x in the future?

Got someone that wants to help ...

First go to www.rc10.com

click on set-ups , there a list of different set-ups for different tracks & there conditions .

Your local race facility will have lead ballast for sale .

Most of the set-ups use 7grams in the back corners of the chassis & the Team ballast weight in front of the transmission...

that depends on how much demand there'll be and on the material quality. I don't know the price of the centro, but i think it will be around 70-150$? Most likely mine will be much cheaper, maybe 40$... it depends on the material costs. AlMg is very cheap, i can get it for free in low amount, in higher amount it's approx. 7$/kg. what makes it expensive are the machine costs.

you dont need the ballast. Long before the ballast came out we used to put lead between the tranny and toe block.You can get 14 grams back there pretty easily. I think the ballast might be 17 grams. You could always cast your own lead weight, since lead melts easily with a solder iron.


As for setups. There is a lot going on now with esc shelves, esc's in the battery tray (not roar legal). If your running 17.5 blinky, guys are going light on the car. If your running mod, more weight makes the car feel more planted. The "Kit" setup is a great place to start. Many guys are here prefer the green/green springs with 1.4x3 pistons or 1.6 pistons. 1.4 fronts and 1.6 rears seems pretty popular. In the video I posted above I was running 1.4x3 front and rear with 35/32.5 oils and green/green springs. Car felt great. My car was turning on a dime and still felt planted. A lot of that was getting the right tires and the groove came in as the day progressed.

I just finished a build of a new B4.2 FT. I used the supplied 17gm ballast weight and added some to the rear triangles as well. I am running a 10.5 motor and got the new ESC mount shelf which works pretty good. I am using Reedy Shorty packs in it so I purchased the SC10 foam and cut it to fit along with the other foams so I can modifiy the battery position a little. I am running my ESC power leads with bananas at 90deg. I also added 0.5 oz. of weight to the front mounted to the front top plate between the ribs. So I should have a great starting point for weigh on this vehicle.

I am using the stock set-up in general with changes to the rear camber link and shock oils matching one of the set-ups on RC10.com. from the kit 30wt. I dropped the rear to 27.5 and increased the front to 32.5 using the stock 1.6 piston on the stock Black and white springs.

Nice car! My build went ok. The stock chassis had a lot of flash in front so I had to trim a lot to get the front a-arms to operate properly. Looking forward to testing and racing tomorrow night at the Tuesday night Worlds at Dirtburners!

I'm liking black front with green rears right now. 32/30 with the 3 hole tapered pistons. Probably going to move to white rears next time out as I'd like a little more corner exit steering. Car is fast as is however and probably don't need to make any changes.

yeah, if I ever need a little more steering, I put whites in the rear and check ride height. I have tried many fronts and prefer the greens in the front. Are you running on outdoor loose? I found that 32/30 just didnt have enough pack for me. it was ok, just didnt like the feel

I will be running on hard packed clay indoors. The track is medium to short and grip is medium. I will be running Gold Barcodes to start and may change to Panther rattlers or Losi BK Bars in the rear. I have a Panther Bobcat front right now and may change this out too. Just getting started with tuning for the first time with the B4.2. I am familier with the SC10 tuning and hope that can help with the various chassis settings.