4p aka matt ask me to post this up for him

is that some sort of aftermarket truggy conversion?

its the serpent truggy kit whats coming out

Does anyone have an eta on the serpent eTruggy conversion?

Back to eBuggy
I need some tips on setting the gear mesh between the diff and driveshafts, this is my first 1:8 build and it's a v2.0. With two shims it was hitting the diff with one it was noisy as hell and with zero it seems to sound the smoothest. Does that sound right?

Tight is fine with serpent gears. You don't want it to spin completely free (this ain't no MP9). After having built many for friends and never bearing about a ring and pinion failure I go with 1 shim per side on the 2.0 kits. It will be tight and a bit notchy but it will wear in just fine after a run or 2 and be smooth (or what I consider serpent smooth, they never spin super free) Keep an eye on motor temps the first couple runs and don't make really long hard runs the first time out as things are grooving into place.

If anyone has any questions on how to make this dont hestitate to ask. You just need a 4s balance plug and 2-2s charger leads that you would get with a 2s nanaotech battery or most batteries. I cannot take credit for this, A Mr. Weber showed me this, but now he is retired again so i figured i would pass it on.

When adjusting the mesh just screw the ring gear with gasket onto the cup leaving the out drives, gears and oil out. Slide the bearings on the gear an cup and put it into the housing the see how the mesh is. I read that on the Neobuggy review of the serpent, wish I would have thought of that before assembling the diffs.

Anyone else notice with a Hi Tech servo and the 24T horn insert theres alittle play if u grab the wheels in the center position. And doesn't center because of this? I was afraid it would strip, but must be ok cause I tried a new one same thing, and the 23 and 25 of course don't work, they go on but u can strip them by hand. Probably concerned about nothing. Will probably get a aluminum horn just for piece of mind.

Thanks

Finished building my new 811. Coming from a MP9e. Made a few pictures before first usage tomorrow. Also finished his new little brother ;-)

Has a RX8 and T8 2050kv and DS1015 servo. Should be good.

Looking good pointy

Has anyone else here had problems with their front shock towers breaking or bending? From some bad front end landings at my track i first broke my CF front tower and the front sway bar area of the diff case was also smashed and ruined. So after that bad luck i put on the 5.5mm aluminum tower and at yesterdays racing after another bad landing i bent the new tower at the top where the standoff is and snapped my shock shaft in half
I'm a novice at the track but have had no damage like this with my 8ighte-e and RC8.2e, hardly broken anything with those 2 cars (pretty much only lost a few screws from no loctite on the RC8.2e and broke a servo saver arm (plastic) on the 8ight-e and i have punished them just the same as my Cobra.
Is it just my bad luck?

Latest Damage (Yesterday)





Previous Damage

I've had a lot of terrific crashes without anything like what you are experiencing. I have broken one part, the front support between the front end and the chassis. I abuse the car quite regularly too. I do have the metal front tower and carbon rear.

No not your bad luck just your bad driving LOL

Been there, Done that. I still choose to run the carbon towers for weight but I've destroyed both. If your crashing that hard I highly suggest you slow down your ESC

Have any of you guys tried making the rear shock perpendicular to the rear arm on the 2.0 setup? If so, what spacing plus the standard standoff did you use and did you use a M4 male to female stand off to space it out? Then, I noticed another Serpent driver was running weights on the rear hubs where the wheel scrapers go; what is the theory behind that?