Seal ring can perform great , just don't torque it down , only snug & firm..

Exactly I don't get how people have problems with them. Snug is fine, doesn't leak or come loose.

Exactly. I've been rounds with people about this as well. I gave up and don't respond to the bleeder screw questions anymore. The washer is exactly the same seal as the screw head. I also have 4 sets of BB's and none of them have had a washer or o-ring since day 1 and NONE of my 16 shocks leak from the bleeder screw. KISS.

In "theory" the brass washer is softish and will squish on the seat and form a seal. The alum cap and steel screw with not conform. I have run it both ways and it never leaked, but i use the washers because I own them. If I got new shocks, I would probably not buy them.

Does that washer fit nicely in the bleeder screw hole cutout?

It fits fine, but I sense something devious from you, lol.

I've got Exotek's and mine don't bind with hexes. Why would a hub cause binding with one method of tire mount vs. the other? They both put the force through the bearing races and the crush tube to the axle. Weird...

As devious as I may be, it was a legit question. I was building shocks for my B4.2 last night and the o-rings seemed like something that could cause issues.

No need for the o-rigs. Take them out... throw them away or do something cool with them. But no need for them on the bleeder screws.

I didnt like the orings at all. they may work fine for some, but I didnt like them. So, I took them out and ran naked, lol. And it worked fine. But I was still having to rebleed my shocks every race day, so I picked up the losi brash washers. And even though leaking was minimal, I mean like 1 drop per race day. I still have to top them off and rebleed every race day. But, here is the kicker. For 2 months, I topped them off and rebleed weekly (as often as I race). Then, I decided I should probably change the oil. Well the oil came out clear. So I was like, wtf, I lose a tiny bit of oul, but dirt never seems to make its way into the shock. My 22 on the other hand is DARK brown after 1-2 packs. Why? no clue, i tried several different orings and it was the same. In short. The brass washers didnt do anything but make me feel better, lol. They are cheap and definitely wont make anything worse. And I really like these shocks. These and the Kyosho shocks really seem to keep the contaminants out.


BTW, I thought you ran a K buggy. I sold my K Buggy because I was poor, but the car was great.

I already have an SC10, just bought a T4.2 and figured I might as well keep the brand the same so I bought a B4.2. I like the idea of parts interchanging. There is nothing wrong with the K buggy, but I am gonna stick with AE for a while. Everyone fast at W3 are running AE so its easier to get setup advice.

yeah, when i was at W3, I thought I was at an AE testing track. I was running my 22 and everyone was turning inside of me and the 22 felt like a limo. So I talked to Mike F and he gave some pointers on tires and i played with the setup and it was minimally better. But, I know my b4 would have turned on a dime on that track. Are you going to try the esc in the tray on that track? its a pretty tacky surface, and I think the more responsiveness would be nice.

going full inline and shorty packs

yeah, I might go inline in the tray for CH on sunday. traction is decent there and being nimble on that track is a plus. I am looking forward to avid esc shelf also.

What ball cups are those? I see a lot Olof guys with those. They look gray