Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
The rc-mini site is one of the best things around. You really can't go too far wrong following their advice.
The point I was trying to make was that there some Mini axioms out there that just aren't true. I just picked on the "arms level" one cause it happened to be in your post. Some of these just drive me crazy cause I see people doing this kind of stuff all the time.
Suppose now that you dutifully set up your car so the arms were level. Let's say that you take the car to the track and you determine that you need to lower the back of the car. Guess what, your arms are no longer level. If you raise or lower the front of the car, again your arms are no longer level. Ride height adjustments are one of the more valuable tuning tools and if you painstakingly made sure the arms were level, they aren't going to stay that way for long. If this is true, and it is, why bother???? Would it not be better to set the ride height you want and forget all about this arms level stuff?????
Minis are a really simple little car. After you "play" with them for awhile, they'll pretty much talk to you and tell you what they need. What makes a Mini tough sometimes is that it can take a whole lot of work to make a simple little adjustment. And yes, it takes a whole lot of trial and error before they start talking to you.
The point I was trying to make was that there some Mini axioms out there that just aren't true. I just picked on the "arms level" one cause it happened to be in your post. Some of these just drive me crazy cause I see people doing this kind of stuff all the time.
Suppose now that you dutifully set up your car so the arms were level. Let's say that you take the car to the track and you determine that you need to lower the back of the car. Guess what, your arms are no longer level. If you raise or lower the front of the car, again your arms are no longer level. Ride height adjustments are one of the more valuable tuning tools and if you painstakingly made sure the arms were level, they aren't going to stay that way for long. If this is true, and it is, why bother???? Would it not be better to set the ride height you want and forget all about this arms level stuff?????
Minis are a really simple little car. After you "play" with them for awhile, they'll pretty much talk to you and tell you what they need. What makes a Mini tough sometimes is that it can take a whole lot of work to make a simple little adjustment. And yes, it takes a whole lot of trial and error before they start talking to you.
you couldn't have put it any better,
but yes, not sure if i wrote about the level rear arms or TFG added that in my m05 article, but i rarely set my car to this parameter but rather by eye and feel or if there are min height rules then will measure with ride height gauge
most of the time i just look at the bottom of the chassis and see if there is more scrapping then usual as i always run the traditional hard front and softer rear setups apposed to the wacky opposites that some people get to work?
as you mention, once you start playing with shock lengths and different springs as well as shock retainers and plastic or alloy preload tensioners this is blown out of the water, and can no longer just look at how the arms are level.
Also regarding the change on front bottom shock position, ive seen this been done i think it was 2 or so years ago and didnt take off. I never tried it personally but i tend to be one that if it works stick with!!
having just gotten the New rear carbon shock tower i find it pretty pointless so far.
stuffs up the rear ride height, due to the shock positions getting higher as you go out. which would mean you would have to lengthen the shock to go onto the most outer position. where i would rather just add a harder spring to get the same effects (all be it with slightly different roll geometry) will have to look at how it goes in further testing. as trying it at a major event where i only got less then 50 minutes of running, 5 min intervals over 3 days was hard to do anything.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (33)
Nope, I stopped publishing back in '99 when the preassures of my 'real' job became too intense to allow me to continue. About the same time forums like this one started popping up, so now you can get information on almost any topic within 24 hours of posting. Which dilutes the value of printed publications, IMHO.
Saw the notice on the top of the forum page about looking for writers. Was tempted, but then looked at my daily planner for the next three months and realized that for me, it would be more work than fun.
Saw the notice on the top of the forum page about looking for writers. Was tempted, but then looked at my daily planner for the next three months and realized that for me, it would be more work than fun.
I imagine your son will rely fully on wikipedia. lol
Tech Addict
iTrader: (33)
Tech Elite
Just a comment on set ups. Set ups can vary widely from surface to surface, track to track, and rules to rules. Lately though, it seems as if my base set up is the same for all the tracks and all the different surfaces. The set up has been posted several times and is the same one that I send back if you PM me for a set up.
Also, the set ups can vary with the relative skill level of the driver and driver preference for how the car "feels". I'm going to use I)arkness or B. Portelli as an example here. His driver skill level is much higher than mine so his requirements are different. He uses a stiff front and a soft rear set up and mine is the exact opposite. If I drove his car, and this is just a guess, I'd probably scare myself half to death. If he drove mine, he'd promptly fall asleep. If his car is a SWB, that would be another reason for the set up differences.
One other thing that has a major influence on set ups etc. is how loose or tight the diff is. Some people are obsessed with whether it's a gear diff or a ball diff. Folks, it doesn't make any difference whether it's a gear diff or a ball diff. There isn't a driver alive who can tell the difference as long as both are smooth in operation and are set to the same "tightness".
Also, the set ups can vary with the relative skill level of the driver and driver preference for how the car "feels". I'm going to use I)arkness or B. Portelli as an example here. His driver skill level is much higher than mine so his requirements are different. He uses a stiff front and a soft rear set up and mine is the exact opposite. If I drove his car, and this is just a guess, I'd probably scare myself half to death. If he drove mine, he'd promptly fall asleep. If his car is a SWB, that would be another reason for the set up differences.
One other thing that has a major influence on set ups etc. is how loose or tight the diff is. Some people are obsessed with whether it's a gear diff or a ball diff. Folks, it doesn't make any difference whether it's a gear diff or a ball diff. There isn't a driver alive who can tell the difference as long as both are smooth in operation and are set to the same "tightness".
Last edited by Granpa; 07-15-2013 at 09:30 AM. Reason: correction
Are Type A Slicks worth purchasing and using over S Grips? With S Grips use soft or hard inserts? Our local track runs Sweeps, looking to run some TCS Events and tires were an issue. Playing catch up on learning Tamiya tires. ANy suggestions, gluing edges etc are appreciated.
Tech Elite
Are Type A Slicks worth purchasing and using over S Grips? With S Grips use soft or hard inserts? Our local track runs Sweeps, looking to run some TCS Events and tires were an issue. Playing catch up on learning Tamiya tires. ANy suggestions, gluing edges etc are appreciated.
If you're planning on TCS racing, the #1016 is now available. My understanding is that the free choice on inserts and rims was going to end when the #1016 premount became available. Unfortunately, the "glue job" on these is shoddy so you should check this. I had one set that was glued on the inside, but not on the outside. There is a premount that is identical except it has a black rim. The difference being that the gluing is top notch, better than most of us can do. They aren't "legal", but you can always switch to the #1016s for the actual race cause they are identical in every other way.
I don't know anyone who has a really good handle on how these new S-Grips work. Lots of theories, set ups etc., but nothing for sure. As far as gluing goes, just smear a layer of cyano from the rim all the way to the edge where the sidewall transitions to the tread. Don't be afraid of going too far cause you'll soon wear it back to where it should be. Lots of experimentation and head scratching here too. Rubber ca or regular ca????? Tried both and can't see all that much difference.
Sorry, long post with very little info, but I usually don't post info unless I'm pretty sure that it's accurate.
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Actually Granpa I'm sure you would be able to drive my mini with ease. I set my cars to be very neutral. One thing I find is when I let someone drive my mini they tell me how much extra corner speed I can carry compared to theirs.
As for wheelbases I think this year I've run it in all configurations just to match the tracks but mainly what body I plan to use.
As for wheelbases I think this year I've run it in all configurations just to match the tracks but mainly what body I plan to use.
Tech Elite
Actually Granpa I'm sure you would be able to drive my mini with ease. I set my cars to be very neutral. One thing I find is when I let someone drive my mini they tell me how much extra corner speed I can carry compared to theirs.
As for wheelbases I think this year I've run it in all configurations just to match the tracks but mainly what body I plan to use.
As for wheelbases I think this year I've run it in all configurations just to match the tracks but mainly what body I plan to use.
Can you share some insight into shock oils and springs and anything else you deem useful?????
Tech Adept
Thanks for all the help guys. Very usefull information!
I'm looking forward to throwing my car into the first bend flat out and seeing which end comes out first
I'm looking forward to throwing my car into the first bend flat out and seeing which end comes out first
Tech Elite
Just a heads up for any TCS Mini racers. There's been a clarification on which tires are allowed. For me there has been a bit of confusion and multiple rumors. Visit the Tamiya thread in the Racing Forum to get the most current info on the tire situation. Whether it changes tomorrow, next week, next month is beyond my abilities to predict.
Tech Adept
It's ready
Tech Apprentice
I'm new to the mni screen and am wondering if any of one knows where I can get a monster mini body from. I believe it is made by Chevron but not sure.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
So are we. Just as a friendly piece of advice: When offering the "Google is your friend" response, it's most effective to make it a hyperlink, in order to demonstrate your superior Google-Fu abilities.