you can definitely go larger holes with the lighter setups and it will work very well.

UFO's have never been made for the SC10. I am working on having them 3d printed but its expensive.....

cool. What would you recommend? just say a 0.1mm size up for the holes all around? I got a piston hole reaming tool here that I bought on Amain, the holder for the drill bits SUCKs but the bits are nice. If I find another SC10 4x4 to tinker with, may look into that on the light side of things.

Hi, pretty much new here. I have couple of quick questions about the sc10 4x4.

I've read through some of this thread, I also looked pretty closely at the first page when building my kit. I've also searched for most of the information, but I can not figure out why I'm having over heating issues with my truck.

My setup as follows:
93T 48p spure
16T Pinion

Castle creations 3800kv motor with SV2 ESC
Motor is really hot, esc is warm and battery is warm. After 10 mins of run time.
20T front and back pully
original style slipper
Clicker locked
No belt covers on the back or the middle, I left the front belt cover intact.
FT kit is on the way.

When I have the belt off, the front and rear transmission spin very freely. I've tested this by putting the wheels on and giving it a push. It rolls at least 10 feet no problem.

When I put the belt on and set it to what I assume is the correct tension, It rolls maybe 9 feet, and this is with the belt covers off.

What worries me is, if I try to run 32 pitch gears and go with a 15T. The motor gets way too hot, and I'm afraid I'm going to cook the motor.

When I run the 48P gears and the belt covers, it gets really hot but no were near as hot as the 13T 32P.

I've tried shaving a little off the belt covers to give more clearance but that hasn't helped any, my only way to run this truck without it getting way to hot is to run with out belt covers and a small pinion.

Does any one have a suggestion on something to look for? I've backed off all the screws in the transmission, the wheel nuts are tight but not clamped down. My only other plan is to get a motor with more torque but these castles are crazy little motors.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Well the V3 pistons have been out for about a month now, the feedback i am getting with stock 2x1.6/1.7 holes is 300/200 seems to work very well . I think going up to 1.7/1.8 would be really good. Hit me up if you get your truck back on the track, I have absolutely zero time for testing lately. I have a few new products i would love to make but I am just swamped right now!

Thats pretty funny!

What causes my truck to want to spin out MID straight on outdoor tracks?

lol cherry!

im going to guess to much throttle at the wrong time.

you running boost or timing?

No, steady throttle, comes off the corner fine, but then it starts to spin right, almost like a tire is unloading, or the diff is, I'm wondering if its the VTS locking up. I have the exoteck locker in.

I know you probably dont want to hear this but that is the advantage to a center dif on outdoor tracks. Your powerband is kicking in mid straight and all the power is going to all four wheels equally thus kicking the rear out. with a dif that extra power is sent to the front wheels and that keeps the rear in check. Only way around this is a good trigger finger, or back the power down.

When the slipper is "slipping" in my config, with the back plate locked, the rear wheels are the ones not getting power right? I hadn't decided on trying the c-diff yet, indoors where I race the truck the most it wasn't really an issue.

Tires


most likely ballooning from the higher speeds......

try this

Belt the inside middle of tire with medical cloth bandage tape ...
bout 3/4 in to 1 in wide....


Also some tires have a reinforce webbing on the inside that helps control the stretching...


slipper & overdrive, ect has nothing to do with the problem BTW

I am sure your slipper is not slipping mid straight or it would be too loose everywhere else. and you wouldnt be able to make any jumps. the Cdif works very well indoors too, you can "get away" without it but if you already have it you will be good to go.

You can play around with your droop settings ie more rear droop, less front, how do you have your shocks mounted? you can even use the 3-3 toe block if the track is fairly smooth.


IMO ballooning tires dont necessarily mean you will spin out, if you "band" the tires you will need to go up on your pinion or the truck will be slower by a good amount.