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Old 06-25-2013 | 10:47 AM
  #11506  
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When I bought my HW they didn't have the 4000 instock, so bought the 4700. Plus I talked to a few people that have ran both and made up my own mind on what to get.

Yea kindof agree with what Bcholka said.... everyone drives different and all comes down to your own preference or style.
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Old 06-25-2013 | 10:49 AM
  #11507  
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man, down for the count for a few days and pages of info to review lol ...

I am planning to go to a practice session this saturday, loose track, smaller setup.

Will report back what I am able to find out for setup etc.

With my back deciding that sitting is not allowed, curious to see how much setup changes I am going to be able to make lol.
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Old 06-25-2013 | 10:52 AM
  #11508  
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i can relate to the back issue,3 spinal surgeries, good luck my friend...
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Old 06-25-2013 | 12:30 PM
  #11509  
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Originally Posted by fq06
10 minutes is 10 minutes regardless of lap times. Power consumption over a period of time would dictate the mah requirement. Traction levels do play into power consumption of course but the main consideration is how much power your setup is pulling. A low amp draw 2 pole say the sc4x will get away with less battery than a pro4hd or tenshock or hobbywing 4 pole would on any given track... IMO.
If you want to run 10 min with a 7lb (+/-) with body truck and not have your pack sagging near the end, the 7200 pack (pick your manufacturer) is a safe bet and a few grams more than a 5600 pack.

Myself and others are just trying to give assistance so he's not buying batteries twice.
I just read your response to my post, you're joking right? So you believe that a track with 1300' or 45s avg lap times will consume the same battery pack at the same rate as a track with say 750' and 22s avg lap times? It's simple, if you keep your foot in the gas for a longer period of time on a given loop you're going to consume more fuel in the same amount of time. To make it easy and avoid an argument watch a NASCAR race at Talladega or Daytona, pit roughly every 35 to 40 laps, and then watch one at say Bristol, where they start pitting around lap 145.

Once you've factored in track size then you play with all the other variables like gearing, tire choice, and of course battery size.

Happy motoring....!
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Old 06-25-2013 | 12:48 PM
  #11510  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky10
I just read your response to my post, you're joking right? So you believe that a track with 1300' or 45s avg lap times will consume the same battery pack at the same rate as a track with say 750' and 22s avg lap times? It's simple, if you keep your foot in the gas for a longer period of time on a given loop you're going to consume more fuel in the same amount of time. To make it easy and avoid an argument watch a NASCAR race at Talladega or Daytona, pit roughly every 35 to 40 laps, and then watch one at say Bristol, where they start pitting around lap 145.

Once you've factored in track size then you play with all the other variables like gearing, tire choice, and of course battery size.

Happy motoring....!
If what your saying is true why would a 20 second lap be any different then a 45 second lap if your on and off the gas the same amout of time. It won't be. You racing a total time. Say two laps around that 20 second track equalled one lap, would you need a different battery? It's really all about the layout of the track. How long is the straight? Are all the turns sweepers or 180's? Like he said, 10 minutes is 10 minutes and lap times don't generally dictate battery size. You just run less laps in that 10 minutes.

Anyway, back on topic.

Is anyone currently running a pro4 3500hd? If so, what is your gearing?
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Old 06-25-2013 | 01:53 PM
  #11511  
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Originally Posted by beaven
i can relate to the back issue,3 spinal surgeries, good luck my friend...
thanks and same to you. Fell off a rappel in basic when I was 17, landing on your head does funny things in which way parts of the body want to go. upper half went left, lower right lol.

So, has anyone gone nuts and tried the new +1.5 hingepin braces?
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Old 06-25-2013 | 02:16 PM
  #11512  
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By that math, Daytona Is 5 times the length of bristol. If you multiplied the 40 laps they get out of a tank by 5 to get to a level playing field you get 200. Or even at 35 laps would be 175.

NASCAR drivers don't turn right so I don't watch the races but the NASCAR math in this instance does not work in your favor... just sayin
Also I would think that you pull more amps punching out of a turn than you do once the motor is wound out on the straight.

I still say that no matter what track your on to get a solid 10 minutes without sag at the end you need more than 6500 when your pushing around 7#'s with a 4 pole. Not to mention the health of the pack taking it down 90% instead of 100% of usable mah in 10 min... or whatever the mah useage would get you to. You would be left with more in the tank with a 7200 than a 6500 so your not pushing the pack as hard.

All in the name of banter, don't take it as an argument. You make a good point but failed when you brought NASCAR into it
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Old 06-25-2013 | 04:03 PM
  #11513  
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We used to have an indoor track that was short and my usual track is outdoor and HUGE 1/8 scale with long straights and big doubles and quads. I can only make 10 min at the out door with my 6500mah pack. At the smaller indoor track i can make 10min with my 5000 mah pack. same car, same set up (im to lazy to change it) same mid pack finish, same 10 min. So for me track lay out and size make a huge difference in what batteries I can use, even though 10 min is 10 min.
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Old 06-25-2013 | 06:37 PM
  #11514  
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I recently got the tekno sc10/ slash hex and does that change the scte offset. Also I just noticed that my steering link nut on the top is rubbing against my wheel I just noticed it. I don't know if it was doing it before the hex change. Also I'm using the scte eclipse tires.
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Old 06-25-2013 | 06:47 PM
  #11515  
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I would argue that there are a lot of factors that determine the usage of mah in a pack. The track layout, the conditions (low bite high bite), etc. would all play a roll. I can also say that my next packs will be SMC 7200 mah packs because more is always better and those packs have a decent price for the quality.

Originally Posted by ravage
I recently got the tekno sc10/ slash hex and does that change the scte offset. Also I just noticed that my steering link nut on the top is rubbing against my wheel I just noticed it. I don't know if it was doing it before the hex change. Also I'm using the scte eclipse tires.
They widen it, cant remember how much I think it says on the Tekno website. If it is rubbing now it was probably rubbing before. What is it hitting the webbing?
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Old 06-25-2013 | 06:54 PM
  #11516  
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Originally Posted by snwchris
When I bought my HW they didn't have the 4000 instock, so bought the 4700. Plus I talked to a few people that have ran both and made up my own mind on what to get.

Yea kindof agree with what Bcholka said.... everyone drives different and all comes down to your own preference or style.
Started with a 15 tooth on mine and temped 170 after 5 minutes. Dropping to 14 tooth helped a little. Dropping throttle punch quite a bit and then dropping forward power helped more but really made it drive sluggish. STEEL 12 had similar issues and remedied them in a similar fashion and also felt sluggish. I definitely would rather buy what seems like a bit much motor that I can tame with esc and radio settings. I've always had a pretty controlled throttle finger so a lot of motor doesn't make me nervous.
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Old 06-25-2013 | 07:11 PM
  #11517  
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The indoor track I run at is pretty high bite it's about 100x60 17sec lap time with the new layout and I put 4400mah back in my 7200mah smc packs. Most of the outdoor track I run on are 1/8 scale tracks some are loose some get pretty bluegroved and I usually put back anywhere from 3000 to 3500mah. I think the Mah has alot to do with traction and trigger finger.
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Old 06-25-2013 | 08:24 PM
  #11518  
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Lightbulb New TEKNO SCT410 CVD

Tekno SCT410 Thread-img_5688-1-.jpg

Tekno SCT410 Thread-img_5689-1-.jpg

Just want to share this new CVD with your TEKNO guys.
Another option for CVD upgrade if you experienced CVD broken problem.

Material is HD spring steel, can check details from pics.
The most difference is the diameter of screw thread upgrade to 5mm instead of traditional 4mm, for more durability and strength. Pretty nice finished products.
The center front HD CVD will be released soon, I guess.

Cheers!
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Old 06-25-2013 | 09:55 PM
  #11519  
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I ran a bit of practice tonight with both of my Tekno vehicles, and the SCT was ridiculously dialed. 35F/27.5R 8 X 1.4 Green F/ Orange R. However, I tried a set of CSI pistons in my EB48 and the 35F and 30R was way too stiff.

I still can't believe how good my SCT is. Thank you Matt Wolter for a great place to start for setup. My truck has never been sooo good.
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Old 06-25-2013 | 09:59 PM
  #11520  
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Originally Posted by GrimmReaper
I ran a bit of practice tonight with both of my Tekno vehicles, and the SCT was ridiculously dialed. 35F/27.5R 8 X 1.4 Green F/ Orange R. However, I tried a set of CSI pistons in my EB48 and the 35F and 30R was way too stiff.

I still can't believe how good my SCT is. Thank you Matt Wolter for a great place to start for setup. My truck has never been sooo good.
yeah, a buddy just went to the Wolter set up (which is very similar to the rcgod setup) and he loves it.
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