if could be the pistons he is using may be different that what comes stock from RC Shox? I know some guys were drilling them out.

You may want to confirm with him.

For me personally, for a loose track setup I was down to 27.5W Losi front, and 22.5W losi rear with the stock RC Shox dual stage pistons, I was also running the exotek chassis and center diff, Blue Fronts on front, Green Fronts on Rear.

Good thing though is that an oil change is pretty quick in comparison to changing diff fluid on the sc10 4x4

based on kv alone and the fact that gearing range on the sc10 4x4 is a bit more limited, I believe the 5.5T would be better on a small to medium size track.

This is basically similar to how I felt with the Tekin Pro4 4000Kv versus the 4600Kv.

Is losi fluid thicker than Associated? I only have 32.5 Losi but have 25, 27.5, 30, 35, and 40 wt Associated. Blues in front like you, Yellow rears in back, its feels pretty slugish. I have green fronts lying around will give them a try sometime.

I use this chart and another (can't find it right now) for oil comparisons:

Also, for me personally I found I liked the front springs on the rear on bumpy sections as the suspension reacted faster. Before that, I felt like the vehicle was diving into the ruts.

TRCR's NEW LAYOUT


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=CVGIbixe8lA#!

To caveat that, for outdoor I went up in spring rate as well as oil if needed. I ran 2 stage all the time but had tried standard pistons on my last run which is how you recieved it. I ran thicker oil 2 stage compared to standard.
Sometimes it was really blown out and bumpy if it hadn't been maintained in a while. And when it was brutal I would make the shock & spring changes.
I also raised the ride height a mm or two.
All done in California where temp changes are not that drastic

Like Cain said though, easy to change fluids, play with it and see what works for you

looks fun you in this wild cherry?

Go back to the 1.2 piston and use Ae 35w for front & Ae 30w weight on rear, yellow springs all around .


You will find a big improvement in performance...

Naw , I made the A and did not strip a spur gear like my team mate Cantrell in the yellow submarine... Ha !

40/35 is too high even when its hot, the 2 stage pistons will overpack with oil that high. 35 in the front is max you should need but most tend to stay in the 32.5/30 front and 22.5/27.5 rear. unless they were drilled out.

Disagree with piston and oil recommendations, 2 stage is superior outdoor.
Problem was 40° temps, get back to normal temps (sounds like NY is) and it will be dialed again.

I had built a brand new set of FT shocks with stock pistons the last day I ran it (one pack) just to try something different and was on the fence indoor. Not enough time for me to have decided. But without a doubt 2 stage build is best for an outdoor track.

It will be back to 85 this weekend in conditions were it ran well. I am going to do the motor change that I talked about and just the spring changes this week. This is good learning for when we try to squeeze the last weeks in the Fall.

What's up Marcus!

Ha Ha! Yeah, I always ran higher weight than you advised. But it worked well for me. When Ranger ran it during normal temps, he liked it. Temp change was the issue.
Our oil weight differences could also be the weight of the truck. Exo chassis and a number of aluminum parts upped the weight but it was very stable for a sc10 4x.

But it only takes a few minutes to change fluids so try a range of weights on a practice day as see what suits you best.

Happy wheeling Ranger

Ranger

Sharing my experience with temperature & shock oil ...


Only consider changing when the temperature has dropped to 45 degrees.
Even then only lower the oil by 1/2 weight .

If temperatures drops to 40 or below ?
Then go a whole weight down .