SC10 4x4 Thread
BINGO!! If you do some searching on this thread you will find that months ago I made a new motor plate with an idler gear to rotate the motor in reverse. Good new is that it pretty much cured the handling issues but the bad news is that i could not get an idler gear to last more than a pack or two before it would eat itself alive. So to to answer your question yes the truck has a gyro effect because of the way it spins. If you spin the motor the same way in a 2wd buggy it will have the same jumping and handling characteristics.
I also saw a post by Krio that covered the same issue on a 2WD kit.
Seems like performance of this chassis would be improved with the Center Diff and 4 gear transmission. What if the motor was more centered on the chassis like a TC6.1? The effect would be reduced right?
Gator
Max's set-up makes for mass grip , the indoor tracks I run on won't need .
Got a brand new outdoor track , its still being finished but looking forward to doing some racing there ...
Will try Max's set-up then .
Max's set-up makes for mass grip , the indoor tracks I run on won't need .
Got a brand new outdoor track , its still being finished but looking forward to doing some racing there ...
Will try Max's set-up then .
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 192
From what I recall, it was the teeth on the gear that stripped, but could be wrong, but again, that is what I remember.
I did do some searching but did not see a photo. I am assuming that you placed the gear low on the plate. What gear did you use and what failed? Did it chew-up teeth or was it bearings?
I also saw a post by Krio that covered the same issue on a 2WD kit.
Seems like performance of this chassis would be improved with the Center Diff and 4 gear transmission. What if the motor was more centered on the chassis like a TC6.1? The effect would be reduced right?
I also saw a post by Krio that covered the same issue on a 2WD kit.
Seems like performance of this chassis would be improved with the Center Diff and 4 gear transmission. What if the motor was more centered on the chassis like a TC6.1? The effect would be reduced right?
I machined a new motor plate but something moved around too much and the idler would die with a quickness.
a 4 gear tranny would be awesome but its never going to happen unless AE does it. The tooling cost alone to mold a new case would be upwards of 10k! the front and rear case would have to be redesigned.I have a 3d printer but it would still cost quite a bit to make it happen. Moving the motor towards the front would help but it still spins the same way, may actually make it worse if you think about it.
Another thing you have to take into consideration is that some motors cant really spin in reverse due to static timing and you are also limited by ESC's too, not all have the ability to run in reverse rotation.
Prosquat will give you some stability going into the turn but you will have very little traction on exit which is what the truck already has a tendency to do. It may work on a high bite or carpet track though.
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 192
(this might be overboard)but i was going to try to make a moving quat (to much work) for my 2wd where wend you hit the gas the anti-quat would lift to 3* then wend you let off it go back to zero. if you think the wheel will force the front of the arm up the harder as it accurate but it will not go back so you could have a spring or leaf spring that pushes it back down to zero. yea it will move up and down in the bumps but that should be a good thing. i think this would be the best thing to put on a rc car (make car fell good on and off power)and you can have harder and softer spring to you liking!!!
Tech Master
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,250
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,595
From: Illinois
(i know what it dose)the funny thing is i never had on power issues with this truck even on slippery track but off power it like to whip out quick. that why i ask how it felt on this truck.
(this might be overboard)but i was going to try to make a moving quat (to much work) for my 2wd where wend you hit the gas the anti-quat would lift to 3* then wend you let off it go back to zero. if you think the wheel will force the front of the arm up the harder as it accurate but it will not go back so you could have a spring or leaf spring that pushes it back down to zero. yea it will move up and down in the bumps but that should be a good thing. i think this would be the best thing to put on a rc car (make car fell good on and off power)and you can have harder and softer spring to you liking!!!
(this might be overboard)but i was going to try to make a moving quat (to much work) for my 2wd where wend you hit the gas the anti-quat would lift to 3* then wend you let off it go back to zero. if you think the wheel will force the front of the arm up the harder as it accurate but it will not go back so you could have a spring or leaf spring that pushes it back down to zero. yea it will move up and down in the bumps but that should be a good thing. i think this would be the best thing to put on a rc car (make car fell good on and off power)and you can have harder and softer spring to you liking!!!
That would be an interesting idea but there would be lots of obstacles to overcome. Allowing the arms to move will effect ride height,droop and sway bars. I do think it would work at least enough to try!



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