16-18 should cover any track for both motors.

Just for giggles I just weighed my truck. Ready to race with the body on it. It is a dead even 7 pounds. Checking the tekno website they show the truck out of the box rtr at 6.6 pounds. So I'm 8 ounces heavy. I realize that could be motor, esc, battery, body, tire & rim , servo weight differences.

On their sight it says you can get down to 5.7 pounds with optional parts. I want to know how they dropped a pound off the car. Looking at the weight reduction chart back on the first page all of those parts only add up to about 7 ounces. Where did they shave off the other 7-8 ounces?

I would love to knock a pound off my truck.

I changed all of them. For oils, I am starting with losi 35W Front, 30W Rear, springs 3.9lbs up front, 2.7lb rear.


They trim the heck out of the mudguards for one, from what I have seen I think that makes a big difference in weight, they also use a lighter lipo too in particular.

Something to keep in mind though, they have also found from what I recall some benefit to a heaver vehicle than the bear minimum. From what I recall based on what people have said, WHERE you are trimming weight can be a big factor in the handling you are seeing. It could be why some have reported from what I recall going back to the stock chassis since it has weight at the lowest point, and trimming weight instead that is higher up like shock towers or on the driveline.

I believe if you use the EB chassis, I thought someone said that it was lighter or a had a light version of it.

I don't know, but by the time you spend all that money to make it light weight, is it worth it.

Back when the SCTE came out, yea people were shaving weight like crazy, cause only option for motors were 2pole and were getting hot. With the 4poles now adays it doesn't seem to be the huge concern it once was.

I agree , batteries have come a long way as well .

green slime

Noleen

Mine is at 6.6 pounds rtr with a heavy shoe goeed body as well (started as a tlr hi perf body with no holes cutout). Things to shave were the trimmed side guards, braces in center and rear (not needed for outdoor anyways), trimmed body posts from below. Things which added weight were, full aluminum shocks, full aluminum hingepins, rx8/4600, 7200 promatch, bls351, sanwa 92524, 10 GA wiring. I recently added around 40 grams of brass behind the battery and 30ish under the rear drive shaft. Helps my times a bit.

I am planning on putting some driveline parts but shaving weight on chassis is going to make traction worse. The tekno shock towers are only 30 grams lighter I think. The next thing to shave could potentially be the shocks themselves, I think each is around 30 grams or so high up. Maybe invert the shock so weight down low :P or put thinner kyosho SC shocks on them with spring adapters for 1/8 springs
.

The main area you can save weight is on the motor and battery. Just enough mAh for the heat and no more motor than you need for the track. If you want to reduce weight i'd start with unsprung weight and weight that's up high. Then probably drive train stuff. Some like the heavier chassis to help keep center of gravity low. The body will make a huge difference but i don't know which are the lightest.

Would you really like to make your truck that much of a liteweight? One of the advantages the Losi had over others was it's heft. Now, if you're racing primarily indoors on a tight layout then I can see where an anorexic SCT410 would be desirable, but not outside. Keep it in the 6.5 to 7lbs range and you'll have a very happy and stable rig especially when the track starts falling apart or mother nature decides to start a blowin'. Weight can be your friend especially when you start rubbing fenders with the brutes.

I had mine down to 6.4 with eb48 chassis and trimmed side guards. I went back to stock chassis and full side guards and the truck feels better to me heavier.

I just ordered my SCT410, had it back ordered. I'm really excited, I've heard nothing but good things about it. Should be here mid next-week!

I did the same thing plus I bought some light weight parts and the aluminum screw kit, plus a bunch of titanium screws. By the way just my opinion titanium screws are a big waste of money, they strip real easy. I haven't stripped any of the Tekno aluminum screws yet. I went back to near stock weight and my lap times not only got faster it was easier to drive. Go figure. I've been wondering why my eb48 turns slower lap times than my v4 d8 and it's almost a lb heavier. I must need to add some weight to my eb. That just doesn't set well with me!

So is current limiter the answer here, or punch control? Why would you limit overall power versus just limiting how strong it comes on? My hobbywing 4000Kv seems to have just enough power for my tastes, but i really don't see how current limiter would help my driving, versus punch control limiting my wheelspin. I also noticed my truck keeps shutting off at weird times during the race. I tried a new sensor wire, re-did all my solder joints, checked to be sure all my bullets were tight fitting, and made sure my receiver plugs were fitting right. It will just have no throttle for 10 seconds, but the steering works fine. I'm using good new smc race formula packs as well. I don't know what else to do.

hey cain, is your shock setup for loose outdoors?

thanks