Really? You must be one heck of a driver. I'm breaking front a-arms on a regular basis. Of course I can't drive worth a hoot either.

I TQ'd 2WD mod this past Sat and was leading in the main but just grazed a pipe on a new layout and it had a large hole in the side of the pipe, enough to grab the front wheel nut....SNAP! Everyone heard it from the driver stand. It barely grazed it! That side instantly went into active camber mode.

The b4 really does not like pipes at all. That being said. I have earned all of my front broken arms. When i break a rear, i kinda scratch my head. The carbon front break "REALLY" easily imo. add in an alum bulkhead and pray you never hit a pipe. I might try the carbon fronts and the 2 holes soon on mine. I like the b44 arms on the back for now.

try carbon in the winter at like 40deg F, they break if you look at them. But I am sure that in a mod class you were moving along pretty quick. Its much less of an issue in 17.5.

Track makes a big difference. Our layout is updated every 6 weeks roughly and some layouts break parts, particularly a-arms, others do not. I don't think I've broken a B4 arm on the past 2 layouts, but the one prior there were days where I broke 2 during a race day.

Mike

Hi

B44 arms

Quicker response? With the original rear arms more traction?
I just need the b44 and nothing else?
The b44 arms have the same geometry like the b4.2 rear arms?

its not a mod, they bolt right on.

Been driving this car since early february racing twice a week and practice here and there. Raced both mod and stock and have not broken a single arm. I run the stock arms in the front and B44's in the rear. I have had to replace an arm from stripping a shock screw but they didnt snap.

And I just jinxed myself. Racing tonight I will probably break all 4 of them on the same lap lol.

I am getting back into electric after being away for quite a while. I am going to run 17.5 class (I think) and maybe mod sometimes (I have a 7.5). I am getting alot of info on what capability I need for lipos. I know alot of folks like the shorty style, but I am talking more the mah and C ratings. I was told to get some minimal 50c (about 100C burst) and at least 5000mah. From what I have read on this thread and the B4.1WC thread, both those numbers sound fairly high. I see folkds using 4300mah shortys with roughly 40C and stating they are quick and getting 12mins out of them. Please help as I am new to the whole Lipo thing.

Thanks.

40c? nah, most are running at least 50-70c and 4000-4300 mah. I ran my 17.5 for 30 minutes until it hit lvc. I know a lot of guys that can finish a 10 minute main with 3800 mah packs. for 17.5 more C, for mod, 25c is fine. Shorties are mainly used in 17.5 to make the car lighter for stock. In mod, most run full packs to calm down the power.

Fantastic!! Thanks. I would assume, however, that the extra C in mod would not hurt either? I am in between running mod or 17.5. In my area, way more folks running 17.5 which is fun, but I already have a 7.5. Thanks again!

It wont hurt or help. In mod you can pick the motor to deliver the power you want. If you want more power you can get a bigger motor. Stock you cant get a bigger motor so a quality battery is more beneficial.

The lower C in mod is really just used to smooth out the low end.

Most good lipo batteries that are 25C or higher can handle a mod 2wd buggy. Anything heavier than a 2wd buggy, any motor with a huge amp draw, or anything that can keep traction maybe a different story.

well, decided to take off the crutch lol, removed the RPM wide bumper for the coming race.

Bet I brake an a-arm now lol.

are you still running carpet?