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Old 05-15-2013 | 05:14 AM
  #5161  
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ae blue shims are not only faster, they're west coast approved.
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Old 05-15-2013 | 07:35 AM
  #5162  
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Hello, I'm looking for the server horn ring, ASC89007. Is there a way to get them without spending 5 and a half bux?
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Old 05-15-2013 | 07:56 AM
  #5163  
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Can someone chime in on this for me?

Having an issue getting exposed shock shaft lengths correct.

Was running three limiters in the front, with 20.00mm exposed shaft length. This is with eyelets screwed all the way in. I know the manual says 21mm shaft length, but I know something is up because three limiters is 2.4mm in thickness, so something is wrong. I swear 100% eyelets are screwed in until they stop.

Any thoughts?
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Old 05-15-2013 | 08:25 AM
  #5164  
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Originally Posted by isarctard
Hello, I'm looking for the server horn ring, ASC89007. Is there a way to get them without spending 5 and a half bux?
I would just the the TLR alum servo horns. that are a direct fit and work very well. they are also 4-40 threaded unlike most others that are 3mm.
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Old 05-15-2013 | 08:28 AM
  #5165  
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Originally Posted by dominick i.
ae blue shims are not only faster, they're west coast approved.


That's true. I've tested them with identical conditions!
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Old 05-15-2013 | 08:29 AM
  #5166  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Can someone chime in on this for me?

Having an issue getting exposed shock shaft lengths correct.

Was running three limiters in the front, with 20.00mm exposed shaft length. This is with eyelets screwed all the way in. I know the manual says 21mm shaft length, but I know something is up because three limiters is 2.4mm in thickness, so something is wrong. I swear 100% eyelets are screwed in until they stop.

Any thoughts?
Maybe you threaded the eyelet to far ?

If you did go to far the metal eye will be tight and not move freely.
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Old 05-15-2013 | 08:35 AM
  #5167  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Maybe you threaded the eyelet to far ?

If you did go to far the metal eye will be tight and not move freely.
Eyelet still moves free. The issue I'm having is I still have excess shock shaft exposure when everything is fitted.

Going to mess around with them again tonight to see if I can figure it out. I know what the numbers are supposed to be, just not sure why everything isn't adding up.
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Old 05-15-2013 | 08:44 AM
  #5168  
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Maybe the opposite , you did not thread the eyelets all the way .


Thread till you feel a little resistance and the metal eye is tighter , then back off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
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Old 05-15-2013 | 08:55 AM
  #5169  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Can someone chime in on this for me?

Having an issue getting exposed shock shaft lengths correct.

Was running three limiters in the front, with 20.00mm exposed shaft length. This is with eyelets screwed all the way in. I know the manual says 21mm shaft length, but I know something is up because three limiters is 2.4mm in thickness, so something is wrong. I swear 100% eyelets are screwed in until they stop.

Any thoughts?
This is my go to measurements for AE Big Bore exposed shock shaft length w/limiters:

Front

3 limiter = .785"
2 limiter = .815"
1 limiter = .845"

Rear

2 limiter = 26mm or 1.023"
1 limiter = 26.75mm or 1.053"
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Old 05-15-2013 | 09:27 AM
  #5170  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
my B4.2 was 1650 OINK OINK!!!!!!!!!

that was full size pack with alum wing mounts

Shorty pack and inline electronics (on chassis) I was around 1510 or so. Much less weight from the wires is what did it for me.

Wildcat, running on outdoor, you should have that pig up near 1700! haha

that is all..... carry on
IDK what mine weigh but I run Venom shorty packs in both my B4.2 and my T4.1. They're not heavy by any stretch as far as I can tell but my main concern is with balance. On the Truck I run the Reventon R and on the Buggy I run the RS Pro and both ESC's are quite similar in terms of weight so I mount them on the left side about .25" in front of the raised chassis rib and as close to the center as possible (I run my ESC lead between ESC and chassis) and then I place my Futaba receivers all the way out to the right to offset as much as possible and I find side to side balance is excellent.

I run no weights up front and set my battery with a single foam insert up front to push it back a tad and my front to rear balance is excellent. I have equal torque control in the air in either direction I want, should I stay on the gas a tad too long or not enough (dependent on traffic and momentum of course). I run a new V3 Speed Passion 7.5 Mod on the buggy which is quite powerful for any track and on the truck I run an LRP 9.5 that is beastly powerful (I feel more so than the 7.5 SP) so while the truck is also well balanced, I have to be easier with adjustments in the air or I'm toast. Have to be a bit smoother with it. Down the straights though, my truck's front end feels extremely light and barely grazes the ground and the slightest pebble will allow the front end to come up rather easily and I have to momentarily let off and/or pump the throttle to keep it from going over and maintain control. Buggy however is glued. Just a bit more practice and I'll be challenging for podiums.
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Old 05-15-2013 | 10:30 AM
  #5171  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjVy-...F3LRNA&index=1

i know its the b4.2 thread... but its a mid motor b4.2 :P
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Old 05-15-2013 | 12:15 PM
  #5172  
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hi there+why so much people put b44 rear arms on the b4.1/b42?

what would be the effect?
just the rear arms needed for this mod or more?


mike
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Old 05-15-2013 | 12:18 PM
  #5173  
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b44 arms are stronger. since price isn't an issue, may as well go with the stronger arms, right?
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Old 05-15-2013 | 12:20 PM
  #5174  
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the b44 arms are a little stiffer. they are the in between stiffness of the b4 and the carbon arms.
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Old 05-15-2013 | 12:25 PM
  #5175  
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Originally Posted by mihaelbencek
hi there+why so much people put b44 rear arms on the b4.1/b42?

what would be the effect?
just the rear arms needed for this mod or more?


mike
Originally Posted by shagnat
b44 arms are stronger. since price isn't an issue, may as well go with the stronger arms, right?
Not so much the strength but more about flex. the standard arms that come with the B4.2 have the most flex or twist, the B44 rear arms have less flex and twist and the carbon arms have none to very little flex. Carbon arms are more rigid thus can snap or break easier if you land wrong or hit a pipe. I recently put the carbon arms (front/rear), the carbon U brace and carbon front top plate on my B4.2 and really like the feel of it. More consistent in turning feel and overall handling.
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