yeah I didn't quite wait long enough, wanted to get my order in early Monday, so I put it in before I left for work, but they hadn't made the adjustment yet, at least that I could tell. Oh well I don't mind paying a little extra and support our hobby

it's possible that wider front gives better handling at sharp turns ?
just a guess though.

The wider hexes make the car more stable. Curtis recommended using the stock rear hexes if you're looking for rear traction.

Different track width front to rear has a definite effect on handling. This is a cut and paste from


EFFECTS OF TRACK-WIDTH ADJUSTMENT
FRONT TRACK-WIDTH
Wider
• Decreases front grip
• Increases understeer
• Slower steering response
• Use to avoid traction rolling
Narrower
• Increases front grip
• Decreases understeer
• Faster steering response

REAR TRACK-WIDTH
Wider
• Increases rear grip at corner entry
• Increases high-speed on-throttle steering
• Use to avoid traction rolling
Narrower
• Increases grip at corner exit
• Increases high-speed understeer

Thank you Chris and Jhautz that is what I was looking for.

here's how it looks. upon the specification of this lipo ( 3s Venom 500mAh 35 C ) you can determine whether any other 4S or 5S packs from any brand will fit or not by comparing the dimensions of the one you're going to buy vs. 2 of the above packs placed over each other.

hope this would help.

I got the serpent servo saver spring but now I'm wondering how much to tighten it down. The stock setup calls for 2mm of thread to be showing but this spring is longer so how much should I tighten it?

I just bought the serpent spring as well and will be installing tonight. I read that you have to dremel the inner diameter. Does anyone have any pics to illustrate exactly where and how much?

Also, I read that the flashing on the servo saver needs to be removed to help with centering. Any more detail on exactly what flashing and how to do this? Thanks in advance.

Hey Navid,

Take a look at this post from Danny:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11581561-post3912.html

Have you had any problems with your servo saver? I'm still using my stock spring and saver parts from the original batch of cars and I haven't seen any issues.

Thanks for the link Chris. I have been having centering problems. I tried tightening the servo saver, but it still doesn't return to center consistently. I hope the sanding + serpent spring will be the solution.

I usually just test the tightness of the servo saver manually when deciding how tight to make it. I found that the recommended measurement in most manuals isn't tight enough. I like to pull the two servo saver pieces apart after tightening the spring and make sure they move, but only with a very good amount of force. Today's 300oz.+ servos can handle load pretty well. Just don't lock it

I'm running the serpent spring almost all the way open and it works perfect.

Just go around 2-3mm. When you dremel the inner diameter, your goal is to make the inner circle bigger. This will allow the spring to sit over the flanges on the nut and upper half of the saver body. You do not need to file the saver body anymore. The spring does the work, and Danny said the mold has been updated to fix this.

I'm in the process of building my eb48 and got the experience of building the servosaver bell crank my self . and I will say if u just put it together as directions say it had about a 1/8" of slop(will not center within that 1/8") with or without spring . this is what I did to correct it to absolute center.

On Ackerman link side of bell crank , sand the surface that meets the other half of servo saver so that when these 2 parts r put together their is a hair of space between outer surfaces . this fixed the centering problem 100% it only took about .2-.3mm removal

stock up on all your parts from amain. 30% off (20%+10% coupon pops up when you visit their site). All stocked up for now

and of course the coupon code today won't come up ... Argh!