Watched Cantrell complete the lowered steering servo.

Worked out great, lower the servo bout 7mm..

the mod also eliminates the stock servo blocks
and are replaced with the Blue Ae b4 mounts


Will give my ride this mod .

Looks like factory

Can you post pics.

Maybe Cantrell can post some images.
Easy & fun to do

Grind X brace off chassis

Position servo with b4 mounts on

Mark holes & drill chassis .

Mount servo

i has a great time with my first race of the season. had 92 entries today at are track.there were 7sct classes i think cause of the number off people. i made the c main we had two quails. the first quail i had a bad battery i thought it was not charged up enough so i ran for 4 minutes almost. second quill i moved the rear shock to middle hole on the tweet and was dialed in next thing i know the battery dies again. they went right to the Mains after the 2nd quail cause we running behinde. i boworred.a battery from another guy started 9th came in 3rd for the c main. this is a large outdoor lose to medium traction not to bad for my first time out with my truck.i had one guy say this truck sucks. but he got stuck in like the d main with his tecno kinda of funny right.any ways i can't with till my next race got to pick up a lipo charger and a lipo since the nhim stick died.and all this was with a stock truck no upgrade not even the brace.i do have sways bar on the truck.i'm very pleased with it so far.

I found out why my diff wouldn't spin smoothly. One of the diff bearings wasn't fully seated on the diff and was a little crooked so every half turn it was stiff. Replaced the bearing and clean the seat then drove it home firmly and squarely. Diff is much smoother now.
After discovering front diff issues I thought I better check the rear. One off the diff bearings was completely seized and had started to melt the diff case!
The original bearings have been replaced now with new aftermarket ones and I replaced the diff case.
Looking forwarded to getting it back out on the track.
Check your bearings folks, these big 4 pole motors will power through the friction but the car suffers.

Speaking on diffs, just getting my truck together, what oil do i want in the diffs?

Gonna be running the RCshox center diff btw.


Thanks, Krom.

I would say start with:

7K - 10K Front
5K Rear
4 pins

Does anybody know where i can get a aluminum servo horn for a hitec on a sc10 4x4?

Ill try an get pics up tomorrow!

Also played with body hight, after lowering my ride hight to 20 fr\rr rubing the tires was noticed. Raised the body by a hole and felt tippy. So went back to the standard low body mount.

This summer I am going to make more attempts to get my SC10 4x4 competitive. I plan to pick up the M2C rear toe block and the RC Shox Center diff next. I am running dual shory packs with a Novak Havoc ProSC/Ballistic 550 4.5t combo. I will be implementing the lowered servo mount as well.

Instead of the Exotek chassis I am designing a carbon fiber insert that will locate the dual shorty packs and extend through the bulkheads in the front and rear sections to add rigidity to the chassis. The three piece chassis really needs to be upgraded to a single piece IMHO. I hope to have something worth posting in July.

I'm glad to see so many people working hard to get this chassis working for them. There are so many aspects that I like about this chassis and a few that I don't like. I would really like to see an upgraded kit from AE someday that addresses some of the short-comings in a fairly large redesign. Hey I can dream right?

Pros: Aspects that I like
1) General suspension design: arms, links, hardware, geometry, sway bars, etc.
2) Hub designs, bearings and CVA shafts
3) Shock towers and body mounts
4) General Bumper mounts and design
5) Low CG chassis with kick up front and rear
6) Commonality with the 2WD SC10 platform for body, wheels etc.

Cons: Stuff I would love to see addressed in an upgrade
1) One piece chassis... merge the three pieces into one. even create an aluminum plate design
2) Focus on saddle pack or dual shorty design for battery layout. I have found that most of the best performing electric 4WD designs have a balanced battery layout. Batteries are a large portion of the weight of a car so the split pack or saddle layout provides the best balance side-to-side. Think if the B44 layout and it's balance. I have seen so many people modify other chassis to this layout.
3) New rear hubs that incorporate higher camber link positions
4) Upgraded front and rear hinge pin holders to provide more tuning options. RC8.2 style aluminum plates with inserts to increase toe or kick up would be nice.
5) Modified front bumper and skid plate to reinforce the lower portion to reduce deformation from impact.
6) Center diff? I have not had experience with this yet but so many people have expressed that this truck really responds when they upgrade to the RC Shox center diff.

I would love to suggest a more extensive redesign to switch from belt drive to shaft drive and a true fluid tune-able gear based center diff. This would be a much larger change which would require new Diffs, transmission cases, steering linkage, out-drive design and shafts, motor mounting and center diff design, chassis layout and a ton of development. I just feel that the base architecture is sound and some changes to bring in the designs that have worked in the past like the B44 and even RC8.2 chassis designs. A forward mounted motor opposite the steering servo and a saddle pack aft seems to work well.

Tom, truck is very fast and wins all the time still at Trcr.

Advise you to save money and ditch most of the so called aftermarket parts.
You won't need them .

Instead use the set-ups posted on Ae's web site.

Take mind or Candrell advise, we won't spend your money,just help you get the truck tuned and performing like ours.

From what I recall of your conditions TomErickson are loose big track 1/8 style correct?

If so, keep in mind that WC's first hand experience with the vehicle is not in these type of conditions. He also has no first hand usage experience with at least one or more of the aftermarket products he has commonly spoken negatively of

You may find value in getting advise for your conditions from those who have actually have ran the vehicle in something similar to what you are looking into running it on as well as the products they have used.

That said, if you are wanting to start slow with your upgrades, I would suggest starting with the M2C rear toe-in block first and see what you think of the vehicle. To me based on what I saw when using it, it was probably the best upgrade I made to the vehicle to plant the rear end on loose conditions. Why AE has not made something similar to this available, especially considering that most if not all of there other offroad vehicles have options (some out of the box) to tune rear toe in its baffling.

As for the Center Diff, I have actually used the item and I found it to work as described and felt it performed better than the VTS in the loose conditions. This was also done when comparing other vehicles equipped with the VTS or standard dual pad setup. On high traction like what WC runs on or the carpet I used to run on, I didn't notice the same kind of advantage, other than maybe a bit more front end pull.

As for your thoughts on changes, etc. Basically AE could make an RC8 based version of the vehicle fairly quickly. But, I do believe that with more work on the SC10 4x4 platform, it can be improved.

Thanks Cherry. I made a stupid mistake when preparing for testing and tuning for the last event. I had prepared the car fully and went through the car completely and set it up using the recommendations from this site. I put the car on the track and it was not that good so I decided to focus on my RC8.2 for that event. I had limited time and want to race both classes but 4x4 SCT is secondary right now for me.

So after the race I was thinking about set-up and what the hell was wrong. The car had not traction especially out of the corners. Then I realized that I wanted to try the overdrive this time since the track was high bite and short. The SC10 should be really good on this track. So I had changed the belt drive to 19t in the rear thinking this was the place to implement the overdrive. So no wonder why it was crappy since I had really implemented underdrive!!!

So I am on a break from racing until July since I am in the middle of moving from Brazil to the USA. Once I get back I plan to get the set-up correct and test for the next event which is a large 8th scale track. I will go back to 20t front and rear.

Tom

I have quite a few results racing outdoors.

Years of experience in fact. Even won the Hank Perry once.

look at set-ups posted on wwwrc10.com first then get back here and tell me the one you think would work on your track.