172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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04-21-2013, 11:53 PM
#6286
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
Anyone try the Suburbs (front and rear) on blue grooved outdoor hard pack sugared track? They don't make the suburbs in mx for the front. I have them for indoor clay and like them a lot. Looks like the scrubs are the only mx avail for the front, anyone know how the M3 does in high wear high traction 17.5?
Thx
Thx
04-22-2013, 03:18 AM
#6287
Tech Regular
So I ran my second car that I built as MM for the 1st time yesterday in a race. Wow. Our track is indoors, but it's not exactly high bite. Medium bite would be describe it, and it can be loose so it was going to be interesting to see if it would work.
I had never run a mid motor car before, and I have a bit of work on it to make it better, but essentially I took my rear motor car setup and tossed it on this with some adjustments, but the base is the same.
I was able to run my fastest laps with MM, ran more consistent, jumped better, and was overall smoother than I had been with my RM car. I TQ'd and won the 7 min main by a good margin.
My RM car was good, but there's something to be said about how a MM car drives without feeling like you have to drive hard to get a really good lap time.
Here's how I made the car config wise. I am going to try saddle packs eventually, but I need to figure out how they are mounting them.
I did have to modify the rear motor guard to move the battery back further back, and the braces look a little tweaked because of it (the holes are actually not made for the braces so it stretches it a bit, the battery doesn't move though. Just looks goofy.)
Here is my setup
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.pdf
Phone friendly JPG version
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.jpg
I had never run a mid motor car before, and I have a bit of work on it to make it better, but essentially I took my rear motor car setup and tossed it on this with some adjustments, but the base is the same.
I was able to run my fastest laps with MM, ran more consistent, jumped better, and was overall smoother than I had been with my RM car. I TQ'd and won the 7 min main by a good margin.
My RM car was good, but there's something to be said about how a MM car drives without feeling like you have to drive hard to get a really good lap time.
Here's how I made the car config wise. I am going to try saddle packs eventually, but I need to figure out how they are mounting them.
I did have to modify the rear motor guard to move the battery back further back, and the braces look a little tweaked because of it (the holes are actually not made for the braces so it stretches it a bit, the battery doesn't move though. Just looks goofy.)
Here is my setup
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.pdf
Phone friendly JPG version
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.jpg
04-22-2013, 06:44 AM
#6288
ok, my kit should arrive today. I picked it up off these forums used. Here was the AD
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...yosho-rb6.html
I will do my usual checks for the screwed screws, diff smoothness and change the shock oil. I have tlr22 4x55 pistons I can use if they work well on the loose outdoor tracks. I mainly need to figure out if the narrow or wide hangers are on the car. Is there an easy way to tell them apart? The seller was not sure what was on the car. Also, it has the exotek upper shock bushings. Do those wear out the caps? Metal on metal seems like a bad idea. It also has the exotek rack, I read on here that the rack was wearing out the steel mounts? Any work around? How can I tell if the steel mounts are shot?
This is the track i will be running on. This video was from last saturday and we will be doing night racing until november. I plan to start with the box stock kit setup, but any pointers on changes that might help out on this track would be helpful. The are no kyosho buggies in town that I am aware of. In fact, I think every car in this main was a b4.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtzDIWHKKG4
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...yosho-rb6.html
I will do my usual checks for the screwed screws, diff smoothness and change the shock oil. I have tlr22 4x55 pistons I can use if they work well on the loose outdoor tracks. I mainly need to figure out if the narrow or wide hangers are on the car. Is there an easy way to tell them apart? The seller was not sure what was on the car. Also, it has the exotek upper shock bushings. Do those wear out the caps? Metal on metal seems like a bad idea. It also has the exotek rack, I read on here that the rack was wearing out the steel mounts? Any work around? How can I tell if the steel mounts are shot?
This is the track i will be running on. This video was from last saturday and we will be doing night racing until november. I plan to start with the box stock kit setup, but any pointers on changes that might help out on this track would be helpful. The are no kyosho buggies in town that I am aware of. In fact, I think every car in this main was a b4.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtzDIWHKKG4
04-22-2013, 06:55 AM
#6290
For your other questions someone with more experience with the car will need to chime in.
BTW nice looking track.
04-22-2013, 07:06 AM
#6291
yeah, I know. It is the receiver mount right? Is this required? I have seen some people run it and some not. After, I get the kit today, I plan to see whats there and what not and make an amain order. He sent spare arms. I was thinking about getting towers, but I never even break the towers on the b4. that track is very nice to cars. its like crashing on pillows, lol.
04-22-2013, 07:48 AM
#6293
you shouldnt need towers. in the pics it looks to me by the spacing of the arms it has the wide blocks on it. I have bought a few used vehicles and one thing ive learned is always take them completely apart and go through them. there are a lot of people out there who arent good at building these kits and build things wrong. the car will still work but not the way it was intended and you may end up being like this things a pos when in fact its something smalll and easy to fix.. thats the best advice i can give you. receive it and disassemble it. then enjoy
04-22-2013, 08:29 AM
#6298
lol, yeah. I did notice that when i was poking around. Losi always liked to bundle stuff too. I am hoping the car will make it all worth while 
Is the chassis still denting in under the rear of the tranny? I read about it when the kit first came out. Have not seen it said in a while, so I figured it was fixed?
Is the chassis still denting in under the rear of the tranny? I read about it when the kit first came out. Have not seen it said in a while, so I figured it was fixed?
04-22-2013, 08:34 AM
#6299
I just changed to the Triad slipper clutch, and man what a difference! With the stocker, I was having the slipper clutch come loss for the 3rd qual, and then my Diff would come loose as well.
Now with the triad, slipper has been consistent for 6 qualifier runs, and 2 main events! Slipper is a bit noisy though (gear noisy, not slipping noisy)... compared to the stocker
Now with the triad, slipper has been consistent for 6 qualifier runs, and 2 main events! Slipper is a bit noisy though (gear noisy, not slipping noisy)... compared to the stocker
04-22-2013, 08:40 AM
#6300
kcar
here is my layout for midmotor. i have the shorty bumped all they way back against the motor. i mad a little stop block out of carbon and wedged it up against the motor, then added a foam pad to space the battery about 1/4 form the motor.setup is pretty close to tebos mm but using ghea pistons and have 32* castor and a few other changes. car is working well at the track, as fast as my rear mototr car.