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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-21-2013, 11:53 PM
  #6286  
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Anyone try the Suburbs (front and rear) on blue grooved outdoor hard pack sugared track? They don't make the suburbs in mx for the front. I have them for indoor clay and like them a lot. Looks like the scrubs are the only mx avail for the front, anyone know how the M3 does in high wear high traction 17.5?

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Old 04-22-2013, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
So I ran my second car that I built as MM for the 1st time yesterday in a race. Wow. Our track is indoors, but it's not exactly high bite. Medium bite would be describe it, and it can be loose so it was going to be interesting to see if it would work.

I had never run a mid motor car before, and I have a bit of work on it to make it better, but essentially I took my rear motor car setup and tossed it on this with some adjustments, but the base is the same.

I was able to run my fastest laps with MM, ran more consistent, jumped better, and was overall smoother than I had been with my RM car. I TQ'd and won the 7 min main by a good margin.

My RM car was good, but there's something to be said about how a MM car drives without feeling like you have to drive hard to get a really good lap time.

Here's how I made the car config wise. I am going to try saddle packs eventually, but I need to figure out how they are mounting them.

I did have to modify the rear motor guard to move the battery back further back, and the braces look a little tweaked because of it (the holes are actually not made for the braces so it stretches it a bit, the battery doesn't move though. Just looks goofy.)

Here is my setup

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.pdf

Phone friendly JPG version
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.jpg
We're running the saddles in the same position you have your shorty, and you already made the modification to the motor guard, so all you need to do is remove the rear battery holder, and flip the front holder, and the saddles should fit.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:44 AM
  #6288  
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ok, my kit should arrive today. I picked it up off these forums used. Here was the AD

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...yosho-rb6.html

I will do my usual checks for the screwed screws, diff smoothness and change the shock oil. I have tlr22 4x55 pistons I can use if they work well on the loose outdoor tracks. I mainly need to figure out if the narrow or wide hangers are on the car. Is there an easy way to tell them apart? The seller was not sure what was on the car. Also, it has the exotek upper shock bushings. Do those wear out the caps? Metal on metal seems like a bad idea. It also has the exotek rack, I read on here that the rack was wearing out the steel mounts? Any work around? How can I tell if the steel mounts are shot?


This is the track i will be running on. This video was from last saturday and we will be doing night racing until november. I plan to start with the box stock kit setup, but any pointers on changes that might help out on this track would be helpful. The are no kyosho buggies in town that I am aware of. In fact, I think every car in this main was a b4.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtzDIWHKKG4
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:54 AM
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Looks to be in decent shape I did notice the rear shelf piece is missing. It holds the rear of the battery bar in place kinda a triangle looking piece.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Also, it has the exotek upper shock bushings. Do those wear out the caps? Metal on metal seems like a bad idea.
I haven't any experience with the Exotek shock bushings but I personally wouldn't run them due to it being metal on metal. I would replace them with the stock plastic mounting hardware.

For your other questions someone with more experience with the car will need to chime in.

BTW nice looking track.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Looks to be in decent shape I did notice the rear shelf piece is missing. It holds the rear of the battery bar in place kinda a triangle looking piece.
yeah, I know. It is the receiver mount right? Is this required? I have seen some people run it and some not. After, I get the kit today, I plan to see whats there and what not and make an amain order. He sent spare arms. I was thinking about getting towers, but I never even break the towers on the b4. that track is very nice to cars. its like crashing on pillows, lol.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:16 AM
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I hope to be picking up my RB6 this weekend. Can't wait to get my hands on it
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:48 AM
  #6293  
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you shouldnt need towers. in the pics it looks to me by the spacing of the arms it has the wide blocks on it. I have bought a few used vehicles and one thing ive learned is always take them completely apart and go through them. there are a lot of people out there who arent good at building these kits and build things wrong. the car will still work but not the way it was intended and you may end up being like this things a pos when in fact its something smalll and easy to fix.. thats the best advice i can give you. receive it and disassemble it. then enjoy
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:55 AM
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yeah, i always tear them down. I always like to check for stripped screws, plus it helps me better understand how to put the car together and take it apart. I hate pulling out manual at the track on my phone, lol.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:09 AM
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I like having the little platform to hold the strap in place it's more of a piece of mind thing for me. From the pic yes it does have the wide blocks on it now. As for the shock mounts I personally would go back to the stock ones.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:20 AM
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it looks like the kyow5303-05 tree comes with a lot of not so useful items. Does anyone else make a plastic or delrin upper shock mount?

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Old 04-22-2013, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
it looks like the kyow5303-05 tree comes with a lot of not so useful items. Does anyone else make a plastic or delrin upper shock mount?

Welcome to Kyosho....where you have to purchase parts in trees.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:29 AM
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lol, yeah. I did notice that when i was poking around. Losi always liked to bundle stuff too. I am hoping the car will make it all worth while Is the chassis still denting in under the rear of the tranny? I read about it when the kit first came out. Have not seen it said in a while, so I figured it was fixed?
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:34 AM
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I just changed to the Triad slipper clutch, and man what a difference! With the stocker, I was having the slipper clutch come loss for the 3rd qual, and then my Diff would come loose as well.

Now with the triad, slipper has been consistent for 6 qualifier runs, and 2 main events! Slipper is a bit noisy though (gear noisy, not slipping noisy)... compared to the stocker
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:40 AM
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here is my layout for midmotor. i have the shorty bumped all they way back against the motor. i mad a little stop block out of carbon and wedged it up against the motor, then added a foam pad to space the battery about 1/4 form the motor.setup is pretty close to tebos mm but using ghea pistons and have 32* castor and a few other changes. car is working well at the track, as fast as my rear mototr car.
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