Speed Passion F1 car - The SP1
#138
Picking up where I left off. When putting in the upper ball retainer, do not over tighten and strip it. I had to CA the wrench to the part, turn it out, break it off the wrench and then notched both of them to be able use a screw driver just like the CRC cars.
Inline was my choice.
Add more shims here to decrease the ride height. You'll need more than 3 for the F104 tires.
Installed! The front end is done. I found that the recommended gap for the front tie rods @ 23 + mm is wrong, too much toe in. Mine are currently at 21.7 or so and now have a little toe out.
Inline was my choice.
Add more shims here to decrease the ride height. You'll need more than 3 for the F104 tires.
Installed! The front end is done. I found that the recommended gap for the front tie rods @ 23 + mm is wrong, too much toe in. Mine are currently at 21.7 or so and now have a little toe out.
#139
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
agree with Fleetmaster, the upper ball holder is really weak , SP should change the material of that part. the football joint in the middle also too soft, they can hardly hold the nut in place to fasten, and the ball will pop out when hitting the wall. other than that it is a nice car to drive and build.
#140
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Also be very careful at step 12. If you are running the F104 tires you use 2x2mm spacers under each lower arm mount point. The tip is buried in the left hand column where the parts for the step are listed and easy to overlook. I did and had to go back and fix it. Also, you'll have to use 2x10mm screws instead of the 2x8mm, they are not long enough when you add the extra spacer and the 10s are too long when only using 1 spacer as that is where the caster mount screws into the same hole from the top. The empty chassis is now sitting at 5mm front to rear on Sweep tires.
#142
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
After talking with Brad this am I added a 3rd 2mm spacer under the arm during my build and it was too much. I need to go back to 4mm under the arm in the am.
Pillow balls I had the same issue on the first one. Stiffer material or an aluminum screw would be nice.
Nice kit to build parts all went together well and quality vs price/value can't be beat. Can't wait to get this on the track and do some testing.
Pillow balls I had the same issue on the first one. Stiffer material or an aluminum screw would be nice.
Nice kit to build parts all went together well and quality vs price/value can't be beat. Can't wait to get this on the track and do some testing.
#143
Tech Champion
agree with Fleetmaster, the upper ball holder is really weak , SP should change the material of that part. the football joint in the middle also too soft, they can hardly hold the nut in place to fasten, and the ball will pop out when hitting the wall. other than that it is a nice car to drive and build.
#145
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Placed my F60 body on the car for giggles and slid a spare front wing in place. All the mounting holes lines up. That was pretty cool. The rear posts seem a little short though and need to be shimmed a couple of mm. There is also a spot in the back that will have to be trimmed to clear the upper pod plate as the body sits right on in. I have a new body on order and will detail that when I have it in hand.
#146
Same here..
I did the same thing, but the roller is together and I am taking a short break to post this. The car will be track ready by the end of the day (accept for the body). Hope this thread keeps going so that we can share thoughts.
#150
And it will be 2 cells with 21.5 or the most is 17.5 blinky...
Right now....I am looking at my brand new LM-F sample and going to paint up the body. My current task is....should it be called LM-F (LeMans Formula) or LM-1 (just like SP-1). I created the name LM-F but cooperate wants it LM-1 similar to the SP-1...easier for them to input information on database.