Nothing better then some extra security..

It might have been one of the other AE threads; wasn't there a suggestion NOT to use the set screw - such to allow more movement of the pin for purposes of less wear and friction(?) - and only stick with the C-ring?

Was that for one of the other AE kits or am I just all sorts of confused.

I sugested it and thays how I run mine. But I also ca the snap rin in place so it cant spit the pin

I think the people with snap rings falling off, never properly CA'd them on. My CVA's are almost a year old and I have never had one come off with the glued snap ring.

Rule number 1 when using the CA, is first cleaning the axle, as it's usually oily.

I never put the set screw in my sc10 and never had an issue but the b4.2 on my 3rd race day it fell off

oyeah, clean as a whistle & personally perfer lock tight ..

Snap ring makes good backup for the screw.

Here we to again....lol.

There is a good chance the ring made contact with the arm and spun it letting the pin come out. look for a mark on your aems under the cva.

It was discussed in this thread and i dont run them either but some are preferring them.

Maybe some more off topic motor issues ? Lol

Snap rings use shogoo wrks great

Finally got my b4.2:



Can't wait to race it this weekend!

where is that viper?

Having recently built a T4.2, B4.2, and B44.2, it seems that the snap rings are not as round as what I remember when I was running an SC10 last year. As mentioned earlier, cleaning is imperative for any adhesive to work- I have a mason jar full of acetone and a tea infuser (otherwise known as a Diff Dunker) on my bench and use it to clean all metal parts that will receive loctite or similar during a build. If one wants to use loctite for this application, I would suggest the green loctite as it "wicks" into tight areas- it's actually designed for bearing race retention after installation. I used CA and have had no issues on my brother's Yaiba Spec AE rides.