The V2's have a black plastic cap that threads onto the bottom of the shock body itself. If you change your shock oil fairly regularly, the shock oil you drain out should be pretty clean looking. If this it the case, you can just get as much of the oil out with a clean towel or q-tip and then refill with the different weight. Any left overs won't make enough of a difference for you to be able to feel. If you let your shock oil get dirty and gnarly looking (shame on you! just like my kids!), you might want to consider taking the shock apart and replacing the o-rings at that point.

V1 shocks use the stack of spacers and seals that press into the shock body through the top with the stick looking tool and a snap washer to hold it all in.

V2 shock have a cartridge cap and the seals go in the bottom end.

V1 Shocks:


V2 Shocks:

During my mains this weekend I was playing with adding weight and moving the battery placement around. I found that I like 2.5 oz in front of the rear toe block and the full size pack moved all the way forward. With adding the 4th hole to the rear tower the truck was planted! I could throw into a corner with no worries about it breaking loose or traction.

With the added rear weight and leaning in the shocks more I found that I lost steering
Question
How many guys add weight to the front to help balance the truck or to gain steering? For my main I temporally added .50 oz above the servo. This really helped steering but its starting to feel like a tank instead of as nimble as I am use to. I am removing the servo to get the weight placment in front of the servo but I am starting to wonder if I just need to remove more weight from the rear to bring back my steering instead of turning my SC10 into a weighted truck. I run Mod so that is not a big deal. But I certainly can ruduce my drag brake now LOL

I don't run weight in the front, I tried it and didn't like it.

I run 3oz in the very back of the battery tray under the battery, that's it.

If I want more off power steering, I lengthen the rear shocks a bit.

I got my boy a Viper10.5 sensord for his sc10 this year he ran a Element 3900kv sensorless all last year and the gearing was 84 23 and it was perfect. My question is will this be a good starting point with the new motor and esc

should be fine, just watch the temps

Should be fine to start there and see. Might have to drop to a 22 pinion depending on how aggressive you get with the timing.

well as far as timing im not sure either lol. Im new to the Viper VTX10 systems. We run mod together so i thought i might have to boost it and put some timing in it too. most of the guys at our local track are going to 5700kv and 8.5t motors I picked this system for a great price even though i thought it might be alittle underpowered

It is plenty fast. But you need to monitor temps when boosting. Leave the can timing alone. Run it blinky first the try 20 deg boost and 10 deg turbo. Maybe drop to 22 pinion

ok will do thanks

This was all answered... dang beer truck ran me off the road so I forgot which thread and page I was on.

Running turbo in offroad is a handful,it's like a on/off switch

It only works at full trigger pull. How often do you yank it?

Depends on the layout,but 17.5 sc I'm always on it,depends on delay and how much turbo you have,but it can be a handful for most

I need to change my set up like this. Did you put your esc in front of the battery to keep the weight centered?