Yeah, I've never broken anything in a diff but I run on a pretty high bite indoor track with pretty short run ups for a couple of jumps so you need to run a relatively tight slipper setting. It's hard on the ball diffs, especially if the diff loosens a titch. I'm probably going to stick with the ball diffs as the response to the gear diff question wasn't overwhelmingly positive. Incidentally, I've been rebuilding ball diffs for 26 years. You would think we would get sick of it.....

Can you port it to tracfone?

lol, I dont mind ball diffs at all. Gear diff are just so messy. And unlike most 8th scales where they pop out in 2 minutes, I have to take apart the rear of my car to adjust the feel. I am using ceramics in my diff. Have been for about 6 months now. Still smooth. All I have to do it relube ever 3-4 weeks. But i like working on my cars. It gets me away from the wife and kids, and into my man cave.

I don't think ae did enough to the "new" sc10. Look at the others and what they are bringing to the table. The desc210 is really a smooth vehicle. they needed to up the ante, not throw some parts on, very disappointed with it so far. Once Durango gets the desc sorted out....

lol, it is a "dot" version. what did you expect? mid motor? alum chassis?

The bigbores, redesigned front arms and tower are huge for the handling. The 3 disk slipper will make it much more consistent. That gave you the alum rack and alum hexes that everyone had to buy separately. The price stayed about the same and you gained a ton. Durango and losi add a few things and up the price by $100 or more. At least AE is not sticking it to the consumer and delivering a truck that wins a ton of big races. It crushed nats and crushed the CC just last week.

^ well said

I've already got everything on my truck except the front arms. From the base truck, to big bore springs only, then hexes & +3 wheels, then added big bores, then added the slipper. Every step of the way, each part has made the truck more consistent and easier to drive faster.

I let a friend that was struggling with his truck drive mine a few laps. He exclaimed that it was like driving a 4wd.

I hear ya! I'm tearing down all 4 of my AE vehicles to go over the diffs this week. I got two done today. Also use ceramics, but I sand and polish all my diff rings and make em super smooth!

For guys that have put gull wing arms on did you need to grind down where the arm attaches to the chassis? My scb gull arms seem to be narrower where the hinge pin is than the standard arms?

Thanks,

I know you asked this question before, but i have not heard of that needing to be done. I cant seem to find a set of arms for my truck, so I cant be sure. How much did you have to remove? is it just mold flashing?

Any ideas on how to make a 11.1v onyx fit into a 2wd sc10 the battery is about twice as tall as the reedy 7.4

I wasn't sure if I missed a part. I purchased the scb tower and arms but in my situation it looks like the arms need to be opened up or where they mount needs to be trimmed down maybe 1/4 inch. Before I did started trimming I wanted to ask..

Use the Non FT plastic type hold down.

Run longer screws on the rear pivots to allow for the height increase. And longer setscrews in front to use the stock thumb screws. Should work out ok since this holder doesn't lock under the rear shock tower slot.

Do you usually run the ballast weight in the sc10?

It had better have something going for it, as everybody at my track are going DESC210 and selling there sc10's.