The bearings should have come lubed already. If things get gritty usually it is better to just put new dollar bearings in. You shouldn't need to grease any axles except for where the universal comes together.

Whoops, I was reading a build on the 811, and he put a little bit on the shafts that would recess in the bearings. Oh well.

Ya it isn't going to hurt a lot, but any excess grease becomes a dirt magnet.

TTT i had to look through to many pages to find this thread lol

I almost say this every morning lol

Anyone finding the rear sway bar's turnbuckle end/ball stud come really close to the rear axles? I calibrated them right but maybe the recommend length is too short...

Are any of you guys running the lower roll center block on the back of the car

So, after doing some comparisons between my 811e front and rear A arms, and the front and rear A arms from my Tekno SCT410, I would say it is entirely possible to use Tekno parts to convert an 811e into a 4wd SCT.

The Tekno front arm are narrower, front to back, at the inner hinge pin, than the 811 front arms. Just need to use spacers on the inner hinge pin to fill in the extra room. Which would also allow you to fine tune the front arm placement, front to back. Win-win.

The Tekno front arm shock mounting holes line up almost EXACTLY with the holes in the 811 arm. The suspension geometry of the shocks will remain the same. Win-win.

The Tekno from arm are 8mm shorter than the 811 arms. Gets the front of the truck within ROAR max legal width. Win-win.

You'd obiviously have to also use the Tekno caster blocks, steering knuckles, axles, hexes, and dogbones. Smaller components, standard SCT hexes, less weight everywhere. Win-win.

Would have to verify that Tekno diff outdrives would fit and work in the stock diffs, front and rear. To be determined. If they work, might as well use the Tekno lightweight outdrives to reduce weight and rotating mass. Probable Win-win.

Would have to use the Tekno sway bar end links and ball links on the 811 swaybars. Non-issue, the mounting locations on both arms are just about in the same place, maintaining sway bar leverage and geometry.

The Tekno rear arms are the same length and shock mounting holes are the same as the original 811 rear arms, and 4mm shorter than the 2.0 rear arms. Again the shock mounting holes line up almost exactly, maintaining the suspension geometry. Win-win.

The sway bar mounting locations on the Tekno arms are farther in towards the inner hinge pin than the 811 arms, so might have to use front sway bars on the rear. Probably not a major issue.

The Tekno rear arms are narrower, front to rear, than the 811 rear arms, so again spacers are needed to fill the gap, again allowing for fine tuning of the arm location and wheelbase. Win-win.

Again, you would have to use the Tekno rear hubs, axles, hexes, and dogbones. Less weight again. Win-win.

With minor mods, trimming, and drilling, the stock Tekno front and rear bumpers should be an easy fit to the 811. Bonus

The rear Tekno body mount looks like it should mostly fit on the stock rear 2.0 811 shock tower. Not fully sure what to do about a front body mount. Possibly fit a SCTE or DESC410R body mount setup? TBD.

Lots of possiblities for battery setups. Everything from two standard 2S brick packs, wired in series to double the mah, to just a standard 2S saddle pack, depending on how light you want the truck to be. Leave the battery compartments stock, cut them down severly and use two shorty packs, or remover altogether and fab a hold down for a 2S saddle pack. Lots of room for experimenting.

Hopefully, between the lighter weight Tekno parts, lighter weight SCT motor, and reductions in the battery trays weight, and battery weights, it will be possible to get such a creation under 7 lbs.

I ran into an issue. My motor is too large, it rubs against the steering post and motor mount. What length fit or dimensions should I be looking for?

Buy a Tekin buggy motor either 2050 or 1900 almost every used these motors for a reason..

Thunderpower fits fine also.

Thanks guys. I need to order a couple more things for my other two kits. Does anyone recommend any other spares or must haves? I know the car is a tank from replies here and by the build. I'm definitely getting an aluminum servo horn as I can see the flex.

Front and rear shock shafts TI
Hinge pins TI
Shock o-rings
Camber, toe ends
Derlin shock bushings
12 degree blocks for adjustment
Front Arms.
Front shock tower.
Bearings
Hub and coupler pins.

And csi pistons and bladders

Wow! LOL