wow, I love the new front and rear body mounts. I hates the body pin mounting style. +1 for sc10 4x4 style mounts

Well with all the talk of the SC10.2 are people still gonna run thier older trucks?
I plan on racing mine for a while because it's only got 2 weekends on it, and it's still new.

you really only need the front arms, front mount and front tower. That is like $20 in parts. All of the other stuff is meh.

Oh and the sexy big bores, lol

I'll definitely be running my current SC10. I already have the big bores and honestly, with my driving style, they don't help me either.

If/when I get good enough to lower my lap times and should I "almost" win a few times, then "maybe" I'll think about upgrading.

Right now finding the right tires for the track and my driving needs more work than any 10.2 version of said truck would help me.

I actually just bought a ft sc10.1/2 on here the other day and plan on running it for awhile. It has most of the upgrades other than the front arms and big bores, which I can always do later. I think the new truck is great for someone starting out or who is still running an older version (I was still running the rtr) but I assume most of the people out there have their trucks pretty close to the .2 anyways

Just got a -used- FT-SC10 for my son and I have a simple question.

With the car fully assembled, if I grab the out-drives on both sides I can move the diff around in the trans housing about 1/8th of an inch - left to right / side to side - and I can wobble the diff inside the housing a good bit at a angle/up and down movement.

This is the first SC10 we have owned and my question is -Is it normal for the diff to be floating around in the trans housing like that on a SC10?

How much diff movement should I expect on a used but "Everything is awesome on the truck" condition

anyone know what the length of the front BB shocks are ?
I have the SCB arms and Front tower on order. I still have the FT V2 shocks but the big bore spring conversion. I am guessing I need to take some limiters out to match the length of the Big Bores until I can update my shocks.

Sounds like you might have the older style outdrives with the newer style bearings. There should be a little side to side movement but very little if any between the bearing and the outdrive. In fact, once the outdrives start to wear a bit they can be difficult to get out of the outdrive. I bought a used one on RC Tech that had the exact same condition. The vehicle will still run and doesn't even sound funny but that certainly isn't right.

Guys, I have searched and not really found the info I'm after, running on a large bumpy outdoor track with low grip.

What would I find the rear end doing if I added these?

Team Associated Factory Team Aluminum Hub Carbon Fiber C Tower Set (2)
[ASC9873]


I'm really looking for more side bite in the rough sections of track, and feel I have it as good as it's going to get, the C hubs are the only thing I have not tryed.

Sounds to me like it could be a bearing:/ cause I have the ft and it doesn't have no more that like a couple mm's of movement if that!!

so you want side bite huh......well I never found it, lol. Those wont really help you. I tried everything and never found the side bite to match my b4, I just assume short courses have too much weight up high. Did you try the new gull wing arms and matching tower? they are supposed to help calm the truck down. Also, the +3mm wheels can help with stability in the corners.

+1 I would pull apart the diff, and make sure you have the right diff for the right bearings. there are 2 different ball diffs. they are not the same. if you have the smaller diff, you can A) replace the outdrives the with larger ones, B) replace the diff case and bearing with the smaller one.,

I just bought some 0 degree hubs for my sc10 truck. They come with the option A, and option B molded camber link tower. Which one are we supposed to use? What is the difference, or benifit to using either A, or B?

thanks

has anyone had any luck with running the 7 front limiters in the shocks, like the FT manual says to run?

The A and B blocks are the same height but different link lengths. It allows you to adjust the link length in small increments. You use whichever one works for the track you are tuning on, if you understand my meaning.