You guys sure seem to like those wall turns over there. I haven't ever been to a track thats done it. How hard is that to get used to?

Also some fantastic driving! I wish I could get my younger son to come drive with me more.

We have one too, it's fun.

if you are a decent driver you will be used to the walls in a few laps.

I run the SC1256TG Savox in all three of my SC trucks. I haven't broken one yet, I used to run this servo in some of my crawlers too @ 277oz. it's pretty tuff! I had the SC1267SG it's a high voltage servo in my OFNA but I changed it to a 1256 because I was having Glitching problems with it. From what I've seen on here and other forums the Savox glitching problems are only from the high voltage servos.

Anyone have a part # for the fiorni pistons I'm sure I spelled that wrong ....thanks in advance !

FIO-OT-UR916

i noticed on amain, the fioroni pistons are silver and on absolute hobbyz they are a brass color........is there any difference in these? hope someone can shed some light on this as i ordered from absolute hobbyz, but like the ones on amain but they are out of stock

Nothing done to it to lighten it. I am using a lighter weight ESC than the normal Tekin RX8, a Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro. I actually have a the steel spur on too and I am using the IP 7200mah lipos.

Maybe its a scale calibration difference. I'll see about getting a weight that I know is "X" and place it on this scale to see what it comes up with.

The Hitec 7955TG seems to be popular. I personally use the JR9100S but its a bit of a tight fit to get it in the servo holder.

My first run with the truck I had two wheel nuts come loose. I had them on tight. Luckily I knew something was wrong right away. Maybe the plastic flexes a little when new? I re-tightened them all and was fine after that.
Put on the aluminum hexes for the traxxas axles and noticed I no longer have any shoulder part of the axle showing. This kind of worries me due to the small wheel nuts on the truck.
Is there plans to make an aluminum hex with stock dimensions?
Also does anyone know of some wheel nuts with a little more flange on them? I use the JC ones on my sc10 and b4 and they have twice the surface area of the little metric nuts.

Interesting, is the thought that maybe the extra thickness with the aluminum hexes is preventing the wheel nuts from possibly being fully tightened down, and this extra leverage on the axle when they get loose is causing breakage?

Got to run my tekno for the first time this weekend @ the bigfoot race @ mikes hobbyshop carrollton texas. Decided to go the cheap route and just run my cityblocks i had on me. (wishbones are recommended). First impressions were that the truck's suspension felt awesome and so plush. Got a few packs in during practice, and tried some setup changes. I know you guys rave about how this truck steers, but i struggled to find off-power steering. (wrong tires probably). I did a couple changes before the day of the mains, and had it steering a bit better. Ended up in the c-main, drivers there are dialed and super fast. For example, my best heat, i ran 18 laps, the fastest guy there ran 21 laps. My pinion gear came loose @ the beginning of the main, so DNF'd there. Overall only one breakage, the front hingepin holder, but i broke in practice, so all was good. Very fortunate that tekno included an aluminum brace straight outta the box. Overall i liked the truck a lot. Felt i definitely could have gone up one main if i used the right tires for the track, and tuned a bit more thoroughly in practice. Btw, no axle breackages here using de trinidad wheels and aluminum hexes. Also, truck flew super flat in the air, none of that nose-down stuff you guys were talking about. All using stock suspension oils, pistons, and springs.

I worked on that a bit myself for the carpet track I was running on. Did you change the rear toe in setting? I believe stock its set at maximum (4.5 degrees). I went down to 3.5 degrees, as well as shortened the rear camber link, and raised it up on the tower on the outer row of holes.

That really freed up the rear end considering the maximum traction tires I was using, was quite happy how it drove. Wouldn't be surprised with less traction, I would probably change my linkages a bit but I am liking the toe in setting so may give it a go like that until the loose stuff comes along lol.

Anyone have any idea how close the setup on an EB48 is to the setup on an SCT410? I would expect them to be similar, I'm just not sure how similar.

The reason I ask is there's a setup sheet on the Tekno site by a fellow named Jason Breiner that is for the same track I run at only it's for an EB48. I'm just wondering if this could be a good starting point for the 410 set up.

I think it's just a difference in the pic. they're all silver as far as I know

I would think a lot of it would be the weight he is seeing on the EB48 versus what you are on the SCT410. Personally, I say give it a go. Worse case scenario you may find you need to go slightly lighter on the suspension due to the weight difference.

Yeah....a lot of tracks over here have wall rides/turns.

It's not that hard really. Biggest challenge is the difference in traction really.....apart from that it just adds another element to the track

We have a lot of younger drivers at the local track.....especially in the SC class

Bent