I agree with being boosted,all tracks went away with boosted 17.5 unless its a huge race and it was expert class,seems now tracks are going to a 13.5 non boosted expert class so well see what happens there,I'd run mod but out her in Cali you have to run with cav and tons of tlr and ae guys,it's not to fun getting smoked

I hear ya on getting smoked by the high level guys. The track I normally race at can fill up with super fast sponsored guys too. They're all decent fellas but getting lapped still sux. As a weekend warrior with kids and a house I'm just never gonna be at that level. Still fun though. I've got a buddy running an SC10 with an Orion (I think) 17.5 and it sticks with all the 8.5's on our track with no problems. I'll text him and see if I can find out where he has things set on his motor and ESC. I know the Orion is probably a bit different than the Reedy but it should be relatively close.

I used to run lrp and just run inserts to change timming,17.5 is not much slower then mod class

My track allows boosted 17.5 in the stock spec class. One won the mod class. Small indoor clay track, the way I like it.

Do the tracks out west that the pros run at split the class into pro and sportsman or something like that? Some places around here do, and it makes a more enjoyable race for us mortals. Maybe you could ask the race director if he would split it up, cuz mod 2wd buggy is fun, but very hard to compete at a top level if you dont do it all the time.


Travis

A properly setup boosted 17.5 with hang with most mod motors when setup right...see every Fri night @ my track too...

+2
I can beat modifieds with my 17.5 stock. I proved it last night.
All it takes is some good driving and specifically dont wreck and you'll do good.

About ready to glue up those cailiburs I bought yesterday.
Darn CA glue, I hate getting that on my fingers....
I hate gluing tires for this reason....

I used to race my SC10 in both stock and open SCT when dynamic timing was allowed. One season I finished 5th in stock and 1st in open. Sometimes more motor is too much and dyn timing can make a 17.5 match a 10.5!

He did it again winning mod with a 17.5. He was so smooth. I finished 3rd in the stock spec and he took another first. My sc10 with the scb front end handled very well. I am going to leave it with this front end as rollovers are a non issue. I am using offset wheels with the camber rods all the way out on both ends and shocks are nearly upright.

Okay, so I finally broke an RS axle (used in the hex conversion), to all those complaining they were breaking them.

It did however take me 5 months of racing (and I race a lot). It happened at a really inopportune time, lol.

Can the Factory Team aluminum rear hubs be put on the wrong side to reduce toe in? Left 1.0 hub on the right side to get -1° ? I have the 2.5° rear toe blocks and want less rear toe, my Durango you can swap sides with the hubs to increase/decrease toe.

I suppose you could do that but I personally have never wanted to go down that low with the rear toe on an SC10. That back end is going to wag like a happy dog. AE makes hinge pin toe blocks that increment up from where you are to 4 degrees for dirt cheap too. What affect are you trying to achieve?

So you'd want 1.5 rear toe? Good luck with that.

After reading Mark Pavidis' tuning guide it was clear to tune rear toe with the hinge pin brace and not the hubs first of all. I have run 3, 3.5 and 4 deg of toe on all sorts of surfaces and tend to stay with 3.5 which provides the best compromize. I have 1 deg STRC hubs on mine and hope someday to get the FT hubs (0 deg) and will run the 3.5 toe block. Anything less and this truck is out of control even on carpet.

I have a little bit of toe-in on my truck. Specifically on the back.
I have the front pretty straight.
You can have a little but if you add alot you'll run into other problems.
I cant imagine running the truck with 1.5 degree toe blocks. I feel that's way too much. Too much toe in and the tires could rub on the rear shocks...lol