lol i know what you mean. just all the work,time, and money ive put into my sc10 4x4 i just coludent see bashing it. i wouldent feel bad to buy a used slashand run it off a 50ft drop into a half pipe at a skate park lol. i had alot of fun with my old slash 4x4 at a skate park. funnest basher i ever had was a zd racing truggy. it was a blast to drive. much like the new dhk zombie

I got back into these while i was waiting for my car parts to show up . I need things to take up my free time when im not build my pro touring cars. This is what i have so far.Dominus (cause it was soooo cheap) its really a fun little truck. Merv with some custom mods(my least favorite) .Blitz . Mini8 . SC10 4x4 with the 1/8 stuff, SC10 4x4 race prepared and my RC10 gold pan A stamp with is a shelf queen. My SC10 4x4s are by far my favorite and most reliable. Thinking bout adding 1/5 scale to my garage. This hobby is still much cheaper than the turbos I just bought!

i need help i have a sc10 4x4 factory team im rebuilding my diffs and im noticing that if i tighten the three 26mm screws that hold the diff to the bule anodized motor thing that the diff becoms tight and when you free spin it it spins chunky do you tighten the screws al the way did i build it wrong if i back the screws out a half turn the diff spins as smooth as butter PLEASE HELP

Thats the way the truck is, put sone blue lock tight on the screws and leave them kinda loose.

This is a video of my SC10 4x4 bashing original kit truck. Running Jconcepts choppers on Hazard wheels, jconcepts over tray, Castle 1410 3800kv on MMP, 3s 3400 amainhobbies ecopower lipo. Nothing special, was my track truck a couple weeks ago. The wheelies are hilarious at 40+ mph, it was pretty windy out there. If you like my videos subscribe. ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTPu...e_gdata_player

Take everything off the right side of the motor plate. When you screw in from the left side ,watch the threads on the right When the threads are level with the motor plate then stop. That's it is should spin freely and it tight where it should be.

I'm rebuilding my spec truck tomorrow I will snap some photos for you so you can see what I'm talking about.

thanks no i have a new problem i got it all rebuilt the rear is smooth did what you said and spins amazing but the front is really stiff i built the diff the same way just with 30000 dif fluid got the novak 550 balista motor hoocked back up and it seams tight so i loosen the belt all the way bt still seams really tight idk what is going on is it possible a new belt would do that my on that cam in the kit did not do that and this is a new fresh out of the package belt and with my diff is it possible to overfill the diff with fluid and that making it stiff need your input its 1:30 here in cali and it has frustrated me for the past hour any tips would be very much apreciated

There's several guys here running the techno. I said why is hardcore AE guys
running the techno for when you should be running the AE. I was just
surprized I mean I wasnt expecting 9 techos to show up yesterday.
I asked them how much the techno costs,
and it's $400+ way above my price range. Im sticking
with the SC10 4wd. Im going the cheaper route, $250 truck and $170 Copperhead brushless system. Ive tied $1000 into an rc car before
and I dont feel I need to do that again.

Is anyone using the Viper Copperhead system in the SC10 4X4, a buddy of mine is on a limited budget and was asking me about it.

Me and many others have had similar experiences and I can attest to a common response in that once you get a pack or two run thru it, it will break in and spin much more freely. When I first built mine, I could just barely spin the diff in my hand, after some breakin period, it loosens up quite a bit

i just got my 4x4 where is the link to that 170 copper head system that will work with this guy. also what noovak system too. i got a used truck coiming in so i hope it good to go might have to get a bearing kit. this is just a roller kinda tired of the wife getting stuck with the 4x4 all the time she just cant keep up with them no matter how good she drives. this is for a medium track and a large track.

Many racers fill the cases all the way , this is bad
and only makes for a tight diff .

Only fill 3/4 so the oil can expand and not be forced out of the cases and inside the gear box...

ok and to mee it sounds like the motor is over working its self like if i were to test drive it hit the gass then let off it wouldnt roll and i ideas could i have the pinon gear to tight its now alot louder than my first time but that i think is beacuse i build my difs the right way the last time i used to much black grease causing then to be tight and stick but im still scared to go run it what would you do ?

My FT SC10 4x4 is complete. Check out the finished product. That's Filthy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB8s...e_gdata_player