What color sway bars were you running with this set up

[QUOTE=Cain;11830059]No prob. Happy to help. You still have that mid motor PSI conversion?

yea Cain all tips help and i still have that PSI along with a PSI buggy now.

Yellow front
Blue rear

You can get some other spacers (I think I used 22 suspension spacers) but if your spring buckets are in good shape it shouldn't be a problem. They should slip over with some light interference. You need 7 mm or up travel limiters to save the out drives anyway.

I think your tire wear and off power push is directly related to using the overdrive.

Got my RX8 set up but still not sure about my esc set up.
Also on a side note does anybody have any spare v.2 center diff spur gears they want to get rid of? pm me

Yes I do the mip are night and day my setup is posted in here and in the mip thred

The only Change is I up my oil to 35 and the inner holes on the arms

O blockades are grate

I don't recall anyone posting about finding other springs that work. Before the spring cup mod, I was using another set of collars to take up the space and that seemed to work okay. But when I went to the spring cup mod with the clips I never had a problem with them passing through.

Me personally for the tight indoor carpet I found I liked changing the rear toe to 2.75 degrees using the M2C blocks a lot, gave me the rotation I needed and I still had the braking action I needed too versus what you woudl loose with the front clicker. That said, I say give it a try and let us know what you think. Your conditions may benefit from using the clicker if you are not a hard brake using person. With the natural drag I have seen in the SC10 4x4 versus what I have on my current vehicle (Tekno SCT410), it may actually work well to let off the throttle and let the clicker pull you around the turn off power.

Can't comment specifically on your shock pistons, but, if they perform in a similar manner to RC Shox two stage ones, on rough outdoors tracks, going from memory, I believe I went with blue springs up front, FRONT whites in the rear, possibly FRONT greens depending on track conditions. I also went with lighter oils as well, especially in the rear.

Maybe go 2.5W lighter in rear (what brand oils are you using by the way? I use losi) and the spring combo mentioned above.

I still have a rough track setup, albeit for RC Shox pistons but maybe it would give you a starting point, I can send. You or anyone else interested, shoot me a pm with your email address and state in the subject that you want the setup and I can send it.

The things that give you more toe in are a god send on rough tracks with the SC10 4x4. Really benefits the car like the clutch baskets and garodisks of old did before the VTS was an option. Center diff now is just killer.

I have the lockout and the standard 20T pulley with clicker locked down, I can turn on a dime (or so it seems). Without the lockout, loosening the clicker will make it turn more like 2wd (and break like 2wd), I couldn't drive it, backend would come around way too fast. But if you needing more steering that I would try it. It should do the same with the lockout but I'm not sure as I have not tried it. What diff fluid are you running up front (I think I have 7K in mine). But I'm setup for a large 1/8 track that can have quite a bit of loose dirt on it.

As for my tires, when they stop having any traction I scrap them but for wear it just depends on the tires.

Maybe I didn't have mine setup properly but I just had the same grey c-clips used for uptravel limiting placed under the spring bucket between the cup and eyelet...did you have it the same way as I am not sure what you meant by 22 suspension spacers. Sorry if I am slow here seems a couple commented on the push from running the overdrive so I may go back to the normal 20T

See comment above regarding spring cup spacers.... Am I missing something?
I am currently running the STRC 0.5 hubs with c-hub mod, I don't have the M2C toe block so should I go to the standard setting hub for this tight high grip small indoor track or just get the M2C toe block for the versatility? Either way I think I am going to try the loosened clicker first to see if I like the "natural" drag it creates instead of the hard braking method

Gonna try going back to the 20T pulley and see if that gets my steering back to where it needs to be for this tight track. I am running 10k/5k so I could go down to 7k on next build to get a bit more steering as well.
Mainly running bar codes or suburbs so not sure how far down they'll hold decent traction.

I'm running a team icon 4.5 550 with what I was told a bigger rotor 14mm.im geared now 12/62 this is how the timing was set on the motor when I got it should i leave it or move it to the center timing mark right now it's negative timing .

I used the same clips - 2mm below the bucket and 5mm above. The little knob part fit in the split of the bucket, between that and the preload on the spring to set ride height it shouldn't of come out. Theoretically, you could add all seven to the bottom.

Here is the PN for the 22 spacers (they fit over the shock shafts) but there's nothing wrong with the AE ones.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-TLR-22

Hey Guys,
I got a quick question for the knowledge base here. I just picked up a new Mamba Monster esc combo that includes a Castle 2200kv motor. The motor says 60,000 rpm on the case, is this motor gonna destroy my 4x4 sc10 cause it seems like over kill. I also just picked up a 1410 3800kv motor but waiting on shipping. Im not in a big hurry to get the 4x4 moving yet...just wanna be ready for when its time too.

Thanks fellas-

Yes way.overkill. if you run the mm and 2200kv on 2s it.won't be very quick..... now come to think of it. I would be amazed if it fit. My 550 ballistic barely squeezed in there. If.you.do get it to fit and.you put 3-6s to it. Stripping drive train in 3...2...1.... yeah too much. The 3800 will be OK if geared right and good ventalation. Gl