I think that may be the problem . . . sometimes outdoor track conditions are not the same as indoor track conditions, hence the car may need to have different abilities (be it through tires, setup, or redesign). I say this with a smile on my face . . . just havin' some fun.

good point.

If the car has rapid steering indoors with a free rear end, that *ability* will be there outdoors, but, that may NOT be what you want.

What? Are you in drugs?? Look I had TONS of success with the AE $x$ )and yes I meant to use the $$) but those setting outdoor are just crap, I raced the hell out of mine and without the final setup before I changed to Tekno it was a looser. The last race I swiched from AE to Tekno every other heat, and with one run on my Tekno I was a full 2 seconds faster after a single heat with it. Box stock, no changes at all. You simply cant do that with the AE kit.

Put a high skilled driver on both back to back and you will see for yourself. I still have both and will run my 410 over the SC10 time and time again.

Personally I feel Wild Cherry's posts to be informative and accurate.
I feel the truck can be ran outdoors without doing any serious mods.
I like my rear end to be pulling more like Cain said. It's not gonna make
a bit of difference to run the plastic chassis or aluminum, aluminum is just bling. Because Cain didnt even recommend the titanium turnbuckles. And
I was thinking the stock ones will bend, but I guess not...

The exotek chassis is something that offers these benefits from what I have seen:

- No need for the chassis brace
- Adds weight at the lowest point over what can be achieved with the stock chassis
- You don't get pushed around as easily by the heavies
- Felt as if I had more traction and was more consistent through the rough stuff

Personally, I would get it if I was running on a 1/8 scale sized loose track. Indoors you probably don't need it. However, I didn't find an issue with leaving it on. Car was very nimble indoors too even with it.

As for the turnbuckles, etc. the vehicle in general is built pretty durable. I didn't find a need for different turnbuckles. Main suspension part I changed and others did was the stock a-arms due to the a-arms bending to RPM a-arms, which for some, took awhile to admit it along with how inadequate the stock non-VTS slipper was until associated's version of the clutch basket came out .

Me personally as far as the rear end goes, I agree I like the rear end to be free for quick transitions, the problem however that a lot of people experienced with the SC10 4x4 who actually run on loose or medium grip tracks was it would have a tendency to come around on you, and you ended up fighting to lock it in by making other setup changes that could adversely affect another handling aspect of the car.

Talking with someone in the past who went very soft on his suspension to generate rear grip, he noticed it would dive into the ruts of the track more and get unsettled because of this, even though it was better with grip.

Me personally, the M2C rear toe in block at 3.5 degrees was a god send. It locked in the rear end so it was stable yet, the truck could be pitched more easily than before. I could then use the proper suspension setup for the track without worrying about the rear end stepping out on me. Turn it was consistent, finally at that point.

100% on everything said.

Exo chassis is not bling. Can't see it unless your on your lid and that's what the chassis helps prevent

I put the strc 3.5° rear hubs on about a week after I got the truck and like Cain said was one of the biggest improvements I saw. Then came the center diff.

???E

I believe the kits plastic chassis still be a good choice for outdoor where traction can be less the average.

A stiffer metal chassis would only make for less grip.

Adding 3 + oz ballast will bring the same stability the heavier metal chassis has.

The sc10 4x4 has plenty of traction provided you use a good set up.

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know the feeling ...

Best bet for anyone wondering about what we are discussing, just give the thread a read through. You'll see plenty of posts about people having the rear end step out on them, hunting for ways to keep the car stable in loose offroad conditions and commenting on ACTUAL use of the exotek chassis versus speculation about the conditions in question, as well as other items I mentioned that were found to work in conditions described where the stock car can be lacking.

Make up your own mind at that point.

ShowDown tour winner for Sc 4x4

John W use the same set - up as I posted a few pages back
Its a fantastic set up for med traction indoor clay.

Trucks drives great with no added ballast ....
Suggest those similar track conditions to consider...

Finally got my truck to roll freely. Guess previous owner had wrong screws in the diff vase area. Back them all out and now the truck rolls freely with the motor so I'm sure it rolls really good without the pinion. Can't wait to try it out tomorrow at practice.
I saw a few post back that some one wanted to run the over drive up front. I'm curious on this gear. Will it give more torq for big doubles and quads? I'm guessing it will hurt on the straight right? Also what's the lockout I saw that some one brought up?

overdrive in the front would be the front wheel spin faster than the rear. so should not do much of anything on jumps and you should have more speed on the straights with more gear. it help mostly with on power / the front wheel will pull the truck around corners and make it harder to spin out. off power should be about the same.

Stay away from the overdrive or the underdrive pulley it's just going to make the car less predictable Kings's advice is very good I've never tried the exotic chassis but I was able to get my car to have a pretty done good without it i don't own 3.5 toed either but I do have a set of mip Pistons in it But I don't run them like the Luces do I run them upside down The only problem I have anymore is traction rolling because I have to much grip My set up can be found back in the pages of the thousands

Has anyone tried's Ceramic bearings in the tensioner

I did switch the tensioners to Yeah Racing SC10X-038DB. It has a larger ID bearing, which should slow down the bearing speed. I can't tell you if they are any better, but at $6 for the bearings and an aluminum pulley, it can't be worse.

I bought them here:

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp

Cool ill chill on the overdrive stuff. I was hear about these option for cars but never really looked into. I had major drag(wheels stopped right away off throttle) and the truck did great with stock setup. Truck is growing on me big time. I hope I can get some good run time in tomorrow before the misses get off.
Ok another question, trying to figure out the difference from the rtr, kit and FT model. My truck came with front and rear sway along with the rear tower that can house the body post. My truck has the silver sway bar that only goes from the front gearbox to the rear. The brace doesn't reach the rear tower like the ones when I search FT pics. Also how can i tell if i have the updated belt cover before i buy another? What am I working with?