If you are doing this, please be aware of a condition called "galling" with aluminum. make sure you lube the ends if you are removing the anodizing as normal wear & tear will eventually eat away at the coating and you could have the parts galling together. Personally I prefer the old nylon mounts myself.

I'll be getting my B4.2 this week and have a few questions. This will be my first buggy so I'm not confident in my motor and servo choices. I will be running a MMP ESC. For the motor I was going to pick up a 7.5t Reedy Sonic, or might wait for the Mach 2? I'm not sure on the servo. I remember reading some suggestions further back but can't seem to find them now. Thoughts?

Are you running the ballast weight in the rear? And how old are your shock o-rings?

I am not sure the MMp will fit. That is a very big esc. I had one once and it would not fit in mine. I suggested the solar 770 to you, google or goto hobbypartz.com

Yes, ballast + 1/4 each triangle + 1/2 next to the receiver. the orings are 4 weeks old and are not leaking and feel free.

Assuming you do not want to change springs, I recently had this exact same issue and there are two definite ways to solve it. First, you can try raising your rear roll center by removing a ball stud washer. Second, you can try adding a limiter to the front shocks. Since I run green springs in the rear, I have standardized on running 3 limiters in the front shocks, otherwise I'm fighting having a roll center that is high enough for good on power corner exit while having one that is low enough for ideal infield traction. The 3 limiters in the front (vs 2) limits how much weight is transferred to the rear of the car and allows you to run a lower rear roll center without the dire effects of it roll over on you as you accelerate out of a corner hard.

Another thing to double check is that your shock eyelets are screwed in all the way and you are running 2 limiters in the rear. Measure with a digital caliper. Your exposed shaft length should be very close to the big bore shaft stroke length minus the limiters you use. If its off by anything significant, you may have an issue.

yes, I am running 3 limiters front and 2 in the rear. I can check the eyelets when i get home. When I built the shocks I compared them to each other before I mounted them to make sure they were the same. I also pre threaded than and I am pretty sure they are bottomed out, but I will confirm when I get home.

If that is the case, then I suggest trying a higher roll center to see if you like it. You may also need more negative camber to hold the corner exit on power. If you're not running -1 camber in the rear, try that before a roll center change. I tend to shy away from more than -1 camber as it makes the car inconsistent in the infield. If you have been running -.5 camber for off power traction, it will have a noticeable affect on corner exit traction.

I normally run -1 front and rear, but I will check tonight. how many washers are you running in the front/rear? I was trying 2 front and 2 rear unshaved this past weekend.

I run 2 washers in the rear on a shaved brace with the A hubs and green springs. Super dialed on our track, but ball stud washers are VERY track specific, and even layout specific, in my opinion. Our track surface is apparently unique. I've found higher roll centers work best on 2wds and lower roll centers work best on 4wds here, as compared to the rest of the "team" setups. We're not talking anything drastic, but even one ballstud washer is a big change for a 2wd.

Another thing, don't chase setup on the rear doing things you don't like on corner exit without first verifying 100% that your outdrives and CV joints aren't excessively worn. Corner exit puts those parts all under load and if they have notches in them, well, you're screwed.

Wayne

The outdrives looks new, no notching. The CVA's are the same age as the out-drives, but I will look them over and clean and grease them. My track is pretty easy on the cars. It is a soft wet clay track. you can feel the sponginess when you walk on it. Plus I run 17.5 and not mod, so the drive train holds up well. But i can take a look.

What track do you run at?

i currently have a sxx v2 with mod+stock upgrade, any hints on settings for this speed control? im currently sitting at 1/6/2/2 with orion vst mod. also only running '1' because i see all setup sheets running 1 (3.2v lipo), but default is 3 (6.4v lipo), why are setups running "1" or does this refer to something i am missing?

Fastlane in Blue Springs, MO.

It is a wet packed topsoil track. We run super soft tires. The track is a medium grip track on average.

If this will be your first 2wd buggy, I suggest to learn on a 17.5 motor. 2WD buggies are super sensitive and can be twitchy. Box setup, 17.5, local track tires, take your time on the build, and just learn to get a lot of laps in before trying to make major changes.

Hobbywing makes a great ESC (same makers of the Orion speedos). The 90a will run a 7.5 and 17.5 perfectly.
http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xerun-90a-sd

Have fun and good luck.

I agree 100%. I taught my son to drive back in September and started out with a 13.5. He was having a difficult time. I geared it way down to bring the speed down and he did much better (turning it down on the transmitter just didn't feel right). After the first of the year our track made a shift heavily to 17.5 so we made the switch. There's just something about the 17.5 that is just perfect on a buggy, particularly on our medium sized track. 17.5 buggy overnight became our biggest turnout and many of the sponsored mod guys will run both their 17.5 buggy and their mod buggy during club racing.