almost done glueing tires today and i'll be set for practice

Venom-
Nice mylaps placement

I posted the 7.5 turn motor as I was replying to someone else who asked for a link of a good/cheap 7.5 motor and an ESC to match.

Yes, that's correct, the lower the turn of the motor (higher KV rating) the faster/more powerful the motor is.

Personally I run a 17.5 turn with the 60amp ESC but if you want to run anything more powerful then a 9.5 turn motor, you have to use the 120amp ESC as the 60amp isn't capable of supporting the more powerful motors needs.

So in short, yes the motor and ESC I linked will work together.


Hope this helps

I have an old b4 that I want to get ready for our buggy class which is set to start this spring. It has the original B4 FT shocks on it that are super old and in need of replacement. I have a guy at the the track that says he has a like new pair of V2 shocks left over after he upgraded to the Big bores that he will let go for $20.00. Should I go with these or just sell off my buggy and get the new one. I feel just buying the big bores separate is not worth it $ wise. The car does need some work... a new dif, some shimming to get rid of slop... as I said it is the original B4. Any other big improvements I should consider that have came out through the years? I do have both the b4 chassis and a t4 chassis. The T4 chassis ends up being about the same wheelbase as a 22, and is super stable, although it pushes some. I'm not sure if the class is going to take off, as we mostly just race SC around here. I would like a decent platform for when I travel to bigger races however.

I guess what I'm really asking is can you feel a big diff between the big bores and the v2 ft shocks..

Huge difference. However, with all the other upgrades you'd end up doing, that would make the call a bit tougher. Just depends on how "up to date" you want to be.

YES!!!!! you will feel the difference, it makes the car alot more forgiving. my B4 is faster and lighter than my 22, and as long as i'm perfect with my B4 i'm about .5 a lap faster. but my 22 has big bores, and you can get a little out of round and still keep going. small mistakes and bumps dont upset the car as much, allows you to be a little off either short or over jumping, and doesnt flip or fish tail out of control. I'm getting a set of big bores for my B4. guys at my track have let me run theirs and definately makes the car more driveable for those of us who aren't pro's.

the pictures of the above buggy i posted was an original b4. I left the stock ball diff in it and ended up replacing everything else. I bought a set of v2's off of here cheap i like the v2's personally have them on the buggy now and had them for some time on my sc10. $20 isn't too bad for the set of shocks i'd put em on. I bought the +8 chassis for mine should be shorter than the 22 but that should mean i will get better steering. We'll see as i have not gotten a chance to drive it at the track yet just in the house (which the gf does not appreciate)

My ride

To those running the ae vts clutch, how do you adjust it correctly? Never got a good handle on how to adjust the old one.

Ok i see alot of you guys running the battery toward the back. For some reason mine won't fit under the strap if i put it in the back of the chassis. maybe my battery is too tall? I do have cheap shorty packs from hobby king. So i'm stuck with it up front until my new batteries show up maybe?

Make sure you don't have the old orginal B4 shock tower. The newer one has a slot cut in it for the strap. I just attacked mine with a dremel tool.

The old plastic and current carbon rower wont work. If you had a wolfpack it might, but a 5000mah 40c+ pack wont fit. You can dremel it out until it fits...

ahh i do have the carbon tower that explains it then

Depends on you setup, I run 17.5 blinky with 1mm of the thread showing. It says to start with it flush with the not of 0.5mm showing. I started with it flush and moved it there after playing with it a bit

Do you use weights on the front of your car? I have my pack 15-18mm from the front and it handles really well. Just curious as to what sort of setups people are using to still maintain steering with all of the weight at the back.