I'm currently set at 23mm RH front and rear
Droop is 99mm F/ 117mm R
Over the course of several years now, lol...I have learned I do not like running
full droop at all, anywhere, nor on anything I'm driving. Just a gut feeling for me. That said, I really don't know how loose the perch would be.

If the spring perch is a design flaw we would see it in a lot more instances. There is probably at least 20 Tekno cars @ SDRC on a race night and I don't believe we seen this happen. If it starts happening more often I am pretty sure Tekno will revise. Just for added security you can make the bottom of the spring a touch smaller so its fits more snug over the perch.

I also used to hate shock boots. I always thought they would affect the suspension action etc. After years or running without boots, and now after a couple years of always running with them, I will never run without shock boots again.

Even on smooth clay or even on-road, even though they don't have boots for on-road. And the reason is simple. We all know how delicate the seals are when we assembly any shock unit. A tiny microscopic tear can cause a leak. Even when assembled perfectly, the shock shaft will attract dirt and dust since there is oil residue present. Dust and dirt are also always present (even in on-road, even on carpet) and those particles will work their way into the cartridge and the seals and make for an inconsistent shock.

The proof for me was when I dumped the oil out of my shocks during a rebuild a couple years ago and all of the shafts were binding with the o-rings. They were sticking, I could almost feel the dust and dirt rubbing on the shaft. They were definitely not smooth and they were all different and inconsistent. There were little scratches all over the shafts and even after rebuilding, they would just leak again because the shafts would immediately or eventually tear the o-rings.

The solution is shock boots. A properly designed shock boot should not interfere with your suspension and a seasoned pro would be hard pressed to feel the difference. That said, inconsistent shocks that are leaking are far more noticeable than shock boots.

Since I always run shock boots now, my shocks do not leak and I only need to rebuild if I want to change something. So, I will never run without them in any condition .

On the shock boot issue....it makes a huge difference that, unlike the Losi ones, these don't just instantly fall off and tear...so they actually do their job and don't get in the way half way through the race.

Yep you have converted me Any chance you guys will release X rings for the shocks? Not complaining, the stocks are awesome, just want that option as well!

if they are anything like the sc10 4x4 ones, please, don't ...

probably getting lost in the posts, but for the tekno reps, any info what the various hingepin bushings equate out to as far as degrees of toe / antisquat, etc.?

Also, am I correct in assuming there is some toe-in on the carriers?

Kyosho shock boots won't bind up.



CSI Shocks came out with a boot that has a similar design....

Antisquat should be 1, 2, and 3 degrees.
1 degree of toe built into the rear hubs. If placed on their correct sides (left on left and right on right) they add toe, if placed on opposite they subtract toe. The hinge pin holders are set to 1.5, 2.5, and 3.5 degrees of toe. so in total you have an adjustment window of 0.5 to 4.5 degrees of toe in 1 degree increments.
In the front you have + or - 1 degree of arm sweep.
The kickup adjusts from 10 to 12 degrees (Danny correct me if I'm wrong on that) which also adjusts the total caster angle.

Anyone know if the rear scte sway bars fit on the sct410? They look close.

Also, I now have the first post so if anyone has any info that you think should be added please pm me and I'll get it up ASAP.

i know earlier you said there was a way to build the shocks that would be optimal. something about putting the shafts in from the top. can you link that or redescribe it?

Big thanks. Another dumb question, am I missing it or is there something on the actual inserts that shows what setting it relates to, like a number or something?

If I am not missing it, anyway you guys could make a chart stating what the identifier is on the inserts, pictures would be even better.

For the future, any plans to release zero degree rear carriers? could then sway left to right and just worry about setting stuff in the hingepin brace.

????

There's only 2 different inserts, the one with the dot in the center and the one with the offset dot. The offset one allows 2 different settings based on which way it's installed.

We've been talking about different hubs, and possibly more insert options, but nothing definite yet.

I think he means out of all the fasteners on the truck...