21LikesRadio Control Hobbies & Raceway - Waterbury, CT.
01-28-2013 | 07:13 AM
IRH is having their Stator Cup race this Saturday.
Anybody interested in going? I'm in, but I'll probably run the B4. Not comfortable with the Kyosho yet.
Maybe I'll come up today and turn some laps.
Anybody interested in going? I'm in, but I'll probably run the B4. Not comfortable with the Kyosho yet.
Maybe I'll come up today and turn some laps.
01-28-2013 | 07:31 AM
01-28-2013 | 10:47 AM
Tech Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 515
From: Jacksonville, FL
I'm using 1.6 pistons and the battery pretty far forward, this worked well before the big bores, I'll move it back and see if that helps. I'm also using 2 degrees of anti squat. Oil is 35 front and 32.5 rear, I'll go thinner in the rear and see if that helps also. Springs are listed above, don't remember off the top of my head at the moment.
Of course I'll make one change at a time and see what works, thanks for the help peeps.
Of course I'll make one change at a time and see what works, thanks for the help peeps.
I will meet you at the track tonight if you decide to go practice, and compare notes.
So far, I love the big bore shocks and would suggest try tuning first before you go back to the V2 shocks.
01-28-2013 | 06:27 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 650
Put some timing on the motor, go up a few teeth on the pinion and hit the berm in the middle all the way back and you should have no problem clearing it. Hope this helps
01-28-2013 | 07:13 PM
That said, I was double - singling the triple with my stadium truck with an Orion 17.5 cutting the apex pretty tight on the pipe and was able to hold nearly the same pace as my "cheater 17.5" buggy.
Don't get too caught up with clearing the triple. One bad jump that requires a marshall will wipe out any gains from clearing it the other 19 laps . Double - single the darn thing until you get the rest of the track nailed down.
Ok, so i've had my Yoda moment for the week. Now someone get me a beer
01-28-2013 | 07:23 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 44
From: CT
Joe - I was running 34/69 (so pretty much the same FDR) with the Trinity D3.5 and having no problems provided I went at least 2/3 of the way out from the apex and carried some speed into the turn.
That said, I was double - singling the triple with my stadium truck with an Orion 17.5 cutting the apex pretty tight on the pipe and was able to hold nearly the same pace as my "cheater 17.5" buggy.
Don't get too caught up with clearing the triple. One bad jump that requires a marshall will wipe out any gains from clearing it the other 19 laps . Double - single the darn thing until you get the rest of the track nailed down.
Ok, so i've had my Yoda moment for the week. Now someone get me a beer
That said, I was double - singling the triple with my stadium truck with an Orion 17.5 cutting the apex pretty tight on the pipe and was able to hold nearly the same pace as my "cheater 17.5" buggy.
Don't get too caught up with clearing the triple. One bad jump that requires a marshall will wipe out any gains from clearing it the other 19 laps . Double - single the darn thing until you get the rest of the track nailed down.
Ok, so i've had my Yoda moment for the week. Now someone get me a beer
Big trev, thanks buddy
01-28-2013 | 07:59 PM
01-28-2013 | 08:32 PM
When I first went to big bores on my Kyosho it wasn't that bad off but needed some getting use to the plushness. My experience with B4's is that I have to add a ton of weight to the rear of that car in order for me to have a sense of stability from the rear. Honestly try adding some weight and try a less aggressive front tire in order to tame the ae aggressiveness!
- I had to move the battery all the way back to get the rear end planted better although I eventually moved the battery up just a bit because I was getting a good amount of push when cornering with it all the way back.
- Also moved to softer springs up front and added a bit of weight as well.
- Removed the washers from under the front and rear camber links.
I'll see how it feels on Wednesday, I might go with lighter shock oil up front if I still get too much push.
Thanks for the suggestions and thanks to Alex for helping me work on the buggy today at the track.
01-29-2013 | 06:23 AM
You'll have to check my car out Eric. Alex and I have have very different styles, and very different setups.
Raising your camber link (aka: adding washers under the inner stud) will lower your roll center. This is where it gets confusing, lowering your rollcenter will actually make your car roll more in the corner. This roll is what transfers more weight to the outside tires, and creates traction.
By removing washers you've raised your roll center (lowered the camber link), which decreases roll through the corner. By decreasing roll, your car will rotate more through the turn, but if you go in too hot, the rear end will wash out because you don't have enough weight transferred to the outside wheel.
A secondary effect of messing with roll centers is a change on camber gain. Usually, compressing the suspension results in a slight (negative) camber gain. If your car has a lot of roll, but little camber gain, it'll suck. If your car has little roll, and a lot of camber gain, it'll suck again.
It's all a balancing act. I can show you better than I can tell you, but you guys are free to try my B4 with the shorty whenever you'd like.
p.s. Adding weight to the front will decrease your forward bite, as it'll take longer for weight to transfer to the rear wheels, and ultimately, there will be less weight transferred. I've actually been thinking about going back to the plastic steering rack to get a bit more forward bite. My car feels really balanced to me at the moment though. Almost like my mid motor cougar did, but with more forward traction.
edit: I'm running black springs up front and white out back. I had greens in the rear, and steering was great, but forward bite was non-existant.
Raising your camber link (aka: adding washers under the inner stud) will lower your roll center. This is where it gets confusing, lowering your rollcenter will actually make your car roll more in the corner. This roll is what transfers more weight to the outside tires, and creates traction.
By removing washers you've raised your roll center (lowered the camber link), which decreases roll through the corner. By decreasing roll, your car will rotate more through the turn, but if you go in too hot, the rear end will wash out because you don't have enough weight transferred to the outside wheel.
A secondary effect of messing with roll centers is a change on camber gain. Usually, compressing the suspension results in a slight (negative) camber gain. If your car has a lot of roll, but little camber gain, it'll suck. If your car has little roll, and a lot of camber gain, it'll suck again.
It's all a balancing act. I can show you better than I can tell you, but you guys are free to try my B4 with the shorty whenever you'd like.
p.s. Adding weight to the front will decrease your forward bite, as it'll take longer for weight to transfer to the rear wheels, and ultimately, there will be less weight transferred. I've actually been thinking about going back to the plastic steering rack to get a bit more forward bite. My car feels really balanced to me at the moment though. Almost like my mid motor cougar did, but with more forward traction.
edit: I'm running black springs up front and white out back. I had greens in the rear, and steering was great, but forward bite was non-existant.
01-29-2013 | 07:08 AM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,426
From: Newhaven ***RCHR***
You'll have to check my car out Eric. Alex and I have have very different styles, and very different setups.
Raising your camber link (aka: adding washers under the inner stud) will lower your roll center. This is where it gets confusing, lowering your rollcenter will actually make your car roll more in the corner. This roll is what transfers more weight to the outside tires, and creates traction.
By removing washers you've raised your roll center (lowered the camber link), which decreases roll through the corner. By decreasing roll, your car will rotate more through the turn, but if you go in too hot, the rear end will wash out because you don't have enough weight transferred to the outside wheel.
A secondary effect of messing with roll centers is a change on camber gain. Usually, compressing the suspension results in a slight (negative) camber gain. If your car has a lot of roll, but little camber gain, it'll suck. If your car has little roll, and a lot of camber gain, it'll suck again.
It's all a balancing act. I can show you better than I can tell you, but you guys are free to try my B4 with the shorty whenever you'd like.
p.s. Adding weight to the front will decrease your forward bite, as it'll take longer for weight to transfer to the rear wheels, and ultimately, there will be less weight transferred. I've actually been thinking about going back to the plastic steering rack to get a bit more forward bite. My car feels really balanced to me at the moment though. Almost like my mid motor cougar did, but with more forward traction.
edit: I'm running black springs up front and white out back. I had greens in the rear, and steering was great, but forward bite was non-existant.
Raising your camber link (aka: adding washers under the inner stud) will lower your roll center. This is where it gets confusing, lowering your rollcenter will actually make your car roll more in the corner. This roll is what transfers more weight to the outside tires, and creates traction.
By removing washers you've raised your roll center (lowered the camber link), which decreases roll through the corner. By decreasing roll, your car will rotate more through the turn, but if you go in too hot, the rear end will wash out because you don't have enough weight transferred to the outside wheel.
A secondary effect of messing with roll centers is a change on camber gain. Usually, compressing the suspension results in a slight (negative) camber gain. If your car has a lot of roll, but little camber gain, it'll suck. If your car has little roll, and a lot of camber gain, it'll suck again.
It's all a balancing act. I can show you better than I can tell you, but you guys are free to try my B4 with the shorty whenever you'd like.
p.s. Adding weight to the front will decrease your forward bite, as it'll take longer for weight to transfer to the rear wheels, and ultimately, there will be less weight transferred. I've actually been thinking about going back to the plastic steering rack to get a bit more forward bite. My car feels really balanced to me at the moment though. Almost like my mid motor cougar did, but with more forward traction.
edit: I'm running black springs up front and white out back. I had greens in the rear, and steering was great, but forward bite was non-existant.
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