Originally Posted by ???E-Racer
Ceramic bearings make your car smoother, but not faster.
I didnt feel a difference between ceramics and regular bearings.
The stock bearings are fine, I dont know why people buy expensive bearings.
The only reason id run ceramics is if I was racing on carpet not dirt.
You never have to oil ceramic bearings so that's one positive thing about them.
Tottally pointless on dirt thou. I wouldnt spend $250 on bearings. [/QUOTE]

What oil do you use to oil your bearings? how often do you oil them? In karting we used teflon oil, I used tri-flow. I use to oil before every race, qualifier, etc. but this RC thing is a different animal.[/QUOTE]

Teflon oil for ceramic and I use SIN oil for regular bearings. I think Acer makes the SIN oil

Hideeho
The same people who spend $150-$200 on a 2s lipo. Mostly people with the 1st name ryan If I am making my living & supporting my family racing rc cars & can find a piece of equipment that can cut 1/10 of a second off a 10 minute main, I'll get that piece of equipment. If I work in another industry & race rc cars to be competitive, no I won't buy that equipment & be 1/10 of a second slower after 10 minutes of racing.

+1

Hey, they offer a 30 day merchaandise credit and NEVER pay return shipping. Jeez, some people

There was a local guy at my track this week-end that had a b4.2! It was a B4.1 converted to it.... but, I dare say that it looked stupid sweet and it drove quite nicely on our track as he let me take it around the track.

I CAN'T wait for mine to get here!

1/2 the people at my track have had the b4.2 converted for the last 2 months now

I have one too, it is in fact pretty sweet. I also just built a T4.2 as well yesterday afternoon! It too should be sweet.

Bob,

Refer to the 1 post u made about why cav ran the plastic or carbon front hindge pin brace compared to the alum is not so much the weight factor as much as the chassis Flex does on thes changes.. some feel they get a more percise direct feel with less flex and gets more cornor speed. The things the look to to make these changes are to run the carbon hindgepin brace/upper front chassis plate and carbon front tower, carbon arms and carm 2 hole castor blocks to give the less a more direct feel///As can be done to with the rear by changing to a carbon b4 arm, carbon B4 reartower ( just make sure u drill the 4th hole) carbon rear u brace.

Andi seen ur pic of ur explostion looks almost as bad as when todd hodge handed me there" 1 of 2" TLR XXXS supper lightweight milled, hollowed out the tunnel with perfect X bracing that didnt affect handling accept making that PIG of a stock tc under weight but ya i think u were there whe i was up in the 1st qual 6am in morning at the INDOORCHAMPS an on Tq pace 2.30 min in an POWWWW i had a episode on the stand docters say it might have been a short ceaser or being such sleep depriaved maybe blacked out... NEEDLESS to say TODD wasnt to happy when i went to his room with a car in each hand...lol

make sure u double check ur steering rack and take out the steering rack ballstuds. i just rebuilt my car cause i couldnt figure out why i was having such a hard time try to find a consistant radio setting for the epa's/DR/ ext on the very new to me M12. but come to find out about 6AM this morning before getting ready to go to SJRC and noticed a LEFT side BENT AVID rack on the bottom section. Then going to put a brand new set of avid in i go to take out the AE gold ballstuds an it felt like i need a TORQUE bar to get out the BALLSTUD fromt the bent side so not only is the rack bent but the stud bent in the rack.. def answered my question on why i couldnt find a consistant starting radio spot..

to describe the SJRC track alittle guys if u can help its a indoor clay mix dirt.. moist and damp in morning low to med bite.Thetripple section and double/triple section jumps does have a rythem to getting it right but also realizing u dont have to think if u pull faster or more speed to jump u make the jump easyier. They are about waist high with equal landing ramps
BUMPS AN JUMPS HAS ALOT MOR BITE has alot more bite

the safe bet tires that from all types of drivers and cars car gold front barcode with3/4 jc rear/ and Gold JC V1 barcodes sanded or brocodes jc-02 med inserts

on the big bores guy what do you think about the multi size pistons? Say like the Avids 1.6x2/1.1x2 and what about the standard stock 1.6mm 2 hole compared to the ae 2 holed 1.6?



does anyone have CAVs setup for his battery placement with the weigh bars in the battery? or a genral idea.

Also dont forget guy if ur building ur shocks and changing the oil wt i would suggest u bleed or fill up at the race track and if the pits are even in a seprate area from the track an the temps are different then ur defeating the whole purpose.. Thats why u notice now u see some racers have in there pit is the Tamyia/Long shock building vacum system..

Yeah I rebuilt the entire steering assembly since I had it all apart. I came around that turn, yanked it hard, lifted the wheels up, thought I was gonna hit the left pipes so turned the wheels to the right. The wheels come down and shot it to the right just enough to clip that other pipe. My car was amazing in OH. I just simply couldn't drive that fast on that technical of a track. I wasn't prepared for it. Picture the race in Dalton we went to only faster

I ran the 1.7's today at bumps and they were really good but I can't say that they would be better than 1.6's just because of the flat surface. at SJRC, yes I'm sure they would be. I'm going to stay with them for now and work on freeing up my car so it rotates better. I'm trying to get ready for 17.5 at Rama and the car is fast (almost took the win today) but it has a low speed push. I have some changes I wanna make for next week and I'll see how it works out.

ya Mills was doing that. I didn't touch my V2's all week in Ohio.... the car was so good I didn't want to mess with it. I spent the entire week messing with the SC10...... god what a fiasco that was. T4.2 incoming

Also can look into buying maybe the muchmore rubber tiresander and since TC rims are the same its a direct fit and just get some fine emery cloth or green scotch bright 600 grit paper and LIGHTLY make ur tire.. always better to do little cause u can always keep onsanding... ALSO MAKE SURE U KEEP GOING THE SAME WAY AND NOT TO ROTATE cause basicly u wanna round over the pin so it gives more tire surface on the ground...

OR also to break in the FRont can always put on the rear..


CAn a couple of you who tried most of the molded insert breack them down to charteristic?
like=
AKA= blah blah
proline blahbla
jc-1ext
jc-2
jc-3
SWEEP
Panthor

When I bought my new car from a 100% factory ae driver I asked him about the front plastic piece vs the alum one,he said the plastic would not strip out the bulkhead because of the flex of the plastic,said nothing about traction,just my 02

JC-1 too flat didn't like

JC-3 seem awesome, just right

PL- good out of the bag... Breaks down super fast

Aka- just too damn firm

I think just as we have theories as to why something works or doesn't, the factory drivers have the same thoughts. They're people just like you and me and although they're a factory driver it doesn't mean they have their own personal R&D staff or even have a certain level of troubleshooting skills themselves. Just like us, they're people playing with toy cars not rocket scientists with Cray Super Computers and clipboards and computer modeling software and PhD degrees.