Factory team bell cranks and 12mm spring kit. Pretty much all I got so far and my truck is driving great. I actually just have the 10mm springs but not sure I want to touch it now with the way its handling. You can always get tires and other things later. Oh I do have a rpm front bumper which I like.

Ok, so I did some experimenting and here are my impressions compared to the RTR stock esc/motor (xp-sc700, reedy 3300kv) and my newly installed Tekin RS and revtech 13.5t motor.

I started with the 18/87 stock gearing and the truck was horribly slow, little punch and no top end. Switched to a 20 pinion and it was better but still slow. I then tried a 22 pinion and again a little better but still slower than my stock parts by a lot. The motor was hot to the point I couldn't hold my finger on it for more than 5 seconds with the 22 and after about 15 mins of driving.

I'm thinking I need to make some changes in my Tekin RS. I have it set to linear throttle profile with no drag brakes and current limit at 13. Motor type is 1 and VC is 2. But, I am not sure what could be holding back so much power, still reading what settings are available with this esc.

13.5 isn't a very fast motor to begin with. If you are running mod 2wd you want more like an 8.5 or something (I run a 6.5).

I run 24/78 with my s10 in 13.5 blinky.

Im running a 8.5 viper system with 30deg timing on the motor and no added esc timing. So the same gearing with a 13.5 might not be sufficient.

They run 13.5t stock classes around here, so that is what I am setting up for.

Thanks, appears that my gearing is way off still. I'll do some more testing this week.

Well stock is no timing/no boost on the ESC typically sooooo....

Yes I need to look at that as well. My SC10 manual says to start off with 26/75 for a 13.5t motor, first I need to get to that.

I read about "dual mode" sensored (goes to sensorless at high rpms) for the Tekin RS and full sensored mode. It is "dual mode" by default, but I could not find where to change that to see if that opened up more tuning options.

I run 76/26 with a 17.5 in blinky,and it runs good,I wouldn't think a 13.5 would be to far off that

Anybody know what is needed to turn an SC10 into a T4.1??

Found all this through google..


Parts:

ASC7439 - Front Body Mounts
ASC9238 - Foam Battery Spacers
Battery Strap:
ASC7452 - Battery Strap
ASC1787 - Thumb Screws
-or-
ASC7473 - RTR Battery Strap with hardware (much cheaper)
ASC7440 - Chassis, Composite (ASC7441 is the high-carbon version)
ASC9562 - Front bumper
ASC9575* - Motor guard. (ASC9819 (SC10) offers more protection and many prefer it over the stock B4 and T4 variant.)
ASC9865* - Rear 0.5 degree Aluminum Hubs
(For some reason the SC10 comes with cheap plastic ones. This upgrade is not critical, but highly recommended.)
ASC7935 - Outer Bearings
ASC7277 - Crush Tube
ASC9587 - Wing Mount (same as B4.1)
Wheels, Foams, & Tires.
Body

NOTES!
If you're not picky, the ASC7473 (RTR composite strap with set screws and wing knobs) can replace ASC7452 (carbon fiber strap) and ASC1787 (thumb screws). Major price difference.
It's easier to move the rear end first. Swap the bumper and bumper brace for the wing/body mounts, and while it's apart swap the 3.5 degree rear arm mount (SC10FT assembly instructions) for the 3 degree (T4.1 instructions).
While moving the front end, remember to install the front body mounts before installing on the new chassis. Use either a pair of the blue aluminum screws (4-40 3/8" SHCS) or a pair of steel screws (4-40 1/2" SHCS) from the body mount/bumper assembly. The T4.1 documentation actually calls for steel 4-40 3/8" SHCS, but the aluminum should be fine.

ASC9865* - Rear 0.5 degree Aluminum Hubs <---- I would suggest the 0 degree ones over the .5 ones.

Wow thanks guys!!! I really appreciate the help!!!

body, tires, rims, front and rear body mounts and the chassis with battery strap. you can get the chassis cheap from ebay. The body mounts are cheap. So the body and tires would be the most expensive parts.

It's a lot cheaper to go from sc10 to t4 then the other way. Eventually ill get the chassis and body to run truck also.