I always say a fool and his money soon part. I have to have both. But I would trade ya a JC for a PL any day......

1000 words right here..

I edited the the height difference. I was thinking of the width.

BTW note the crush pad I put on the PL in front of the center vent. If you run the finisher it would be best to put one on it to. I think that it may not have cracked had I done that in the first place.?

Thanks for the pics, that bottom shot with the body on is what I was looking for. With the stock body, if I was to velcro it to the battery tray, the sides would have to be sucked in & it would look strange. I see the Bulldog is just wider than the chassis, which is what I want.

What is the little slot that you cut in the chassis for?

You should have that little slot on yours to? Its a waste...LOL That's there to put a wrench in and tighten your slipper. Not sure why they insist on having that? I always tighten mine from the top. Its so much easier.

Great thread and a super fun car to drive -- my first foray into 4wd buggy. Question -- my rear hub bearings -- particularly the outer bearings float in the hub and on one side you can see where it is starting to wear away the aluminum. I have ~ 15 packs through the car. Should I be asking Associated for new hubs or is this 'normal' and is there a fix? Should I just run the $4 plastic B44 hubs or the RPM hubs for a few more $$? Obviously that removes some tuning options but it looks like nobody is using those alternate link holes ...

UN4 - Your right, I have it too. Never noticed it before?

I was thinking if you want some steering try my set up. Or at least run the inner front top plate ball stud setting. The longer link may help? If my set up is to loose then add some weight in the rear. I'm at 40g right now. Still a work in progress.

If you run zero toe it may give ya more steering to. The one thing you may be having is the force of the spring is not forcing the studs to work. There is a sweet spot for each tire style. So if air holes don't reveal any help then try a stiffer spring. I'm going to be biting my nails to see what you come up with. So keep in mind I only have 10. Sure would like to hear some follow ups.

BTW. Is the track surface real smooth or does it have some texture to it?

Where going to need pics. If its a heat issue like a bad bearing the plastic ones will fail even faster. I find the exacto knife to be a great pointer...LOL Take some calipers to each side. If you document with some facts they will for sure hook you up. You may have to check another kit?

Mine are with a new never used set..
Both are exactly 0.500,5 inches. The bearing will fall out if you tip them over. I would rather them be tighter but so far so good on previous kits. If you have a loose fit and a bad bearing it eats at the inner of the hub. Only fix I can think of is to put a piece of thin paper in there.

I personally would not trade in the option hubs, not going to happen. Avid sells bearings for a buck. I would try that before running plastic hubs. The bearings could be the issue. Put a caliper to them....

My hubs will be sailing toilet paper from them before I trade in my option hubs.

Well I'm off to the track. Just waiting on my cab. Keep it on the wheels....

Last day for this layout. Or last chance to beat my ghost. Lets gather now, Lord bless our dirt with medium bite for at least the 1st 3 rounds.

Amen.

Off to the track. Will be playing with tire / wheel venting (or lack there of), wheel base, ackerman & link length. I'll post my results later tonight along with a pic of the track (if I can remember my photobucket info)

Thanks for all the help

Cut a thin piece of paper the width of the bearing. Cut the paper down to about 1/2 an inch. Put it in the hub on bottom and work the bearing in with the paper. This will take out the slop.