I agree that around .10s is the sweet spot for me too. Anything faster than that, and you can get the back whipping around pretty good. I used to run a .07s Orion and it was great once you calmed down, and started treating it with respect.

I'm running a BLS451 and it's money.

I just started my kit last night also, it seems like the back of the pinion gear is rubbing on the gearbox. So I used a dremel to remove a little material and the pinion is clear now. Its much smoother now with 6 and 3 shims... The rest will break in..

To test it, put the drive shaft with pinion in the gearbox, w/o diff, and spin it. You can feel it rubbing..

Hoping to start my kit late tonight and have it race ready for saturday providing that my motor and battery come in.

SOOO i just finished building my kit going to the hobby shop to pickup my reventon pro esc since i sold my tekin rs last friday ( over priced on off switch) and im wondering what pinions to try on a 9.5 turn lrp x20 brushless motor.. its the only motor i currrently have at the moment and dont know if i really need to drop the coin on a 7.5 turn setup.. please let me know toughts or suggestions and gearing for both 7.5 and 9.5 turn combos.. i run on a rather large indoor clay high bite track at leisure hours raceway in joliet il. Also what brand motors are all you guys running in 7.5/6.5 turn range.

thanks in advance!

I'm running 24/81 with an Orion 7.5.

I'd start somewhere around 30/74 with a 9.5 and check temps every 3 laps.

Sucks you didn't like the Tekin, but spening a little time in Hotwire can make a WORLD of difference.

Had the fastest laps so far with my car last night. !
Dropped down to the grey spring in front (from blue) with the same 35wt
Rear is now green and 30wt oil.
I Now have 2 ball stud washers under all 4 inner link studs. (Planted the car more)
50g ballast weight with battery's forward.
It is getting better and better.!

So for the guys with fast servos - did you consider adjusting the servo speed and/or exponential on your transmitters? Typically I just look at torque and try to get at least .10 speed. Then if it's too twitchy I just tune it down with electronic configuration (or move it to a more inner hole on the servo arm to decrease the throw).

I was mostly curious if you found out the servo speed adjustments weren't consistent, and opted to swap out the whole servo?

Well, I'm still on those spec tires, just with closed cell inserts. The front needs something. It just may need the diff loosened as I run it REAL tight historically and the long chassis may make that not a requirement. I don't want to mess with the rear, it's great. I'm betting I just need to play with front r/c and or ballast weight.

Last night it was REALLY dry. It was dry as heck at the end of round 1, and round 2 had no water. I pulled off in 2wd because I just couldn't even go and it was just no fun... plus nobody was going to beat my time and I was sitting in #2 for the night. In 4wd, In round 2 I got a 21 5:07 on the driest slickest that track has ever been. Serious. In the main, we got a light water before, but we were the last race and it was stupid dry again and I got a 22 5:10 in the main, which had a 8 second first lap due to the start, putting it at around a 21 5:02 if it was a normal qualifier.

I'm hesitant to change the car, but I finally changed my 2wd to account for the dry conditions (lighter rear shock oil) and I may have to do the same for the 4wd. When the track gets dry it just pushes too much imho.

Wayne

I will have to give the extra washer a try. I've got everything else you described so far.

I always run the fastest servo possible. I want the wheel exactly where I told it right then. The faster the servo, the better the car is for me, always. No exceptions. I run the same servo in all 1/10 scale cars: savox 1258tg with a 6v rating of .08. No excuse for those wheels to not be exactly where I want them the second I tell it to do it. I can control my inputs.

On our track, the cars respond better to less washers in my experience. Tried on a 44, 44.1, and 44.2. Point being that minute roll center adjustments can be very different at your specific track, where as springs and other settings tend to be more constant.

I would run 23/81 for a 9.5 I was at 22/81 for an 8.5 and currently 19/81 with boost. I think if you go 30/81 you will over heat.

I am also running the reventon pro esc.

Give the 2 washers a try.
A pro at my track helped me dial it in and it is feelin great! He is running the same setup except for the opposite hole on the Ackerman I am. I am planning on switching to the more aggressive hole position, but I was waiting until i got used to this car an got faster, now I am ready I think it will be my next change to try out.

recommend to start out with .030 first

If your having traction issues try a extra .030 ,will help plant the car & improve grip ..

That's a generalization that doesn't hold true on every track. Removing washers has helped at our track. It depends on the track. At our track, 2 washers is slick as snot. Dead serious. It's horrible.

Everyone should tune ball stud washers and use what works for them and not use/make generalizations. Ball stud washers are the final fine tuning that is most often changed for me along with shock oil.

I setup a B44.1 with big bores for a friend for the midwest winter champs and we ended up with zero washers front and rear. He came in 3rd in one of his qualifiers ahead of cav and 2 spots behind tebo. He ended up qualifying 5th and taking 8th overall in 4wd and loved his car.

This was with ZERO washers. On other tracks, 2 washers on his car was best. It depends on the track.

If he had 2 washers before we started working. Absolute poop. If 2 washers always made more grip, all the team setups would have it that way.

We, as a group on the internet, need to stay away from making generalizations about things, especially those of us who are most listened to.

Wayne