RC10B4.1 FT/WC
01-16-2013 | 02:09 PM
Hey is there anyone that has switched from the RB5 to the B4.1 and used the rims/tires on the B4.1? I'm trying to determine if the off set is the same. I tried using the rims from the RB5 and the buggy picked up a bad push, I swapped the the B4.1 wheels/tires and push went away.
01-16-2013 | 02:18 PM
Hey is there anyone that has switched from the RB5 to the B4.1 and used the rims/tires on the B4.1? I'm trying to determine if the off set is the same. I tried using the rims from the RB5 and the buggy picked up a bad push, I swapped the the B4.1 wheels/tires and push went away.
01-16-2013 | 07:32 PM
That is a good mod and I have been playing with it myself at home. But i have not put this on the first page for 2 reasons.
1) AE is making new tower and it might make this mod null and void.
2) The mod is nice, but the creator did not provide enough details on the mod for it to be overly useful. What sized screws did he use in the counter sunk holes. Where did he get the screws (part number)? How far should the tower be moved back(mm/inches)? What size spacers for the wing mounts are needed and where to buy them?
This MOD is complicated enough that it requires more details to be posted on the first page. I was under the impression he was still testing and perfecting the mod. How it effect handing? Did the body need to be trimmed? etc. No offense to the MOD creator.
"If" this became "the mod" for BB shocks. It would be great if the exact hole placement could be determined and premade drilling templates were created for those interested. Ideally you could make it out of steel. Then bolt it to you u-brace and drill out the holes according to the template. Maybe make the template and the rear spacers and missing 5-40 FHS screws included. So like a "BB Tower mod conversion kit". If i had the resources and the mod tested well, I would do it.
1) AE is making new tower and it might make this mod null and void.
2) The mod is nice, but the creator did not provide enough details on the mod for it to be overly useful. What sized screws did he use in the counter sunk holes. Where did he get the screws (part number)? How far should the tower be moved back(mm/inches)? What size spacers for the wing mounts are needed and where to buy them?
This MOD is complicated enough that it requires more details to be posted on the first page. I was under the impression he was still testing and perfecting the mod. How it effect handing? Did the body need to be trimmed? etc. No offense to the MOD creator.
"If" this became "the mod" for BB shocks. It would be great if the exact hole placement could be determined and premade drilling templates were created for those interested. Ideally you could make it out of steel. Then bolt it to you u-brace and drill out the holes according to the template. Maybe make the template and the rear spacers and missing 5-40 FHS screws included. So like a "BB Tower mod conversion kit". If i had the resources and the mod tested well, I would do it.
01-16-2013 | 08:15 PM
I would assume most people are running 3.0 degrees of inboard toe for med to high traction tight tracks? I know I read a few pages back that if the setups sheets don't say anything they are running the stock inboard toe.
01-16-2013 | 08:25 PM
01-16-2013 | 08:58 PM
sure pm me the details and i will put it on the first page.
01-16-2013 | 09:31 PM
Ah man thought you meant Thursday lol, I'm gonna be there Thursday for practice. Until I get my own transponder I don't want to race. Did the race at the end of the aka holiday bash as my first race and the handout transponder mounted to the body totally changed the way the car turned. Was gonna go mrc but now I hear the potential for conflicts at tracks that update the firmware or something.
01-16-2013 | 11:21 PM
i run a similar mod, it moves the tower 8mm and i dont countersink the brace. stock screws and screws into the chassis, similar to original. you have to trim the rear of the body a little, but there are no conflicts with the tierods. only been running it for a few weeks, all is good so far.
01-17-2013 | 07:08 AM
Good morning,
Is there an advantage to using the MIP diff gear and rebuild kit when I rebuild the diff? I'm in 17.5 currently but plan on going mod sooner or later. Also planning on either trying ceramic or AE carbide balls, any thoughts on what's most dependable in the diff in general?
Thanks
Is there an advantage to using the MIP diff gear and rebuild kit when I rebuild the diff? I'm in 17.5 currently but plan on going mod sooner or later. Also planning on either trying ceramic or AE carbide balls, any thoughts on what's most dependable in the diff in general?
Thanks
01-17-2013 | 07:18 AM
Good morning,
Is there an advantage to using the MIP diff gear and rebuild kit when I rebuild the diff? I'm in 17.5 currently but plan on going mod sooner or later. Also planning on either trying ceramic or AE carbide balls, any thoughts on what's most dependable in the diff in general?
Thanks
Is there an advantage to using the MIP diff gear and rebuild kit when I rebuild the diff? I'm in 17.5 currently but plan on going mod sooner or later. Also planning on either trying ceramic or AE carbide balls, any thoughts on what's most dependable in the diff in general?
Thanks
01-17-2013 | 09:22 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
Good morning,
Is there an advantage to using the MIP diff gear and rebuild kit when I rebuild the diff? I'm in 17.5 currently but plan on going mod sooner or later. Also planning on either trying ceramic or AE carbide balls, any thoughts on what's most dependable in the diff in general?
Thanks
Is there an advantage to using the MIP diff gear and rebuild kit when I rebuild the diff? I'm in 17.5 currently but plan on going mod sooner or later. Also planning on either trying ceramic or AE carbide balls, any thoughts on what's most dependable in the diff in general?
Thanks
If you want to get really good at building diffs that last, buy a Losi 22. I had to build/rebuild the diff on my 22 a bunch of times before I got it right. Got lots of practice! LOL
