Hi Guy's,
i will be building my B44.2 this week, and i have a Q about ball cups.
Actualy i normaly use the stock AE ball cups without much trouble, i have used RPM ball cups before but found them to be soft and popping off easy, also the deform when you screw them on your turnbuckle, the tend to be out of line, the ones i used were white, maybe the black ones are better?
So what is your favorite ball cup, AE,RPM.Jconcepts or Lunsford (do the Lunsford ones fit directly on the stock turnbuckles?)

Cheers
Rob

Our tire set ups are the same
M4 front with proline closed cell
M4 rear with AKA red insert

My set up
All stock exept the following
Losi 35 up front with kit springs
Losi 30 rear with Green springs or super soft Kyosho

Ride height 21.5 front, 21 rear

Front diff tight
Rear diff just under tight

What do ya think

Yes, I am runnig some drag brake

All my Team mates & myself prefer the RPM long shank version in black of course....

With out a doubt I would rather run the AE ball cups. The JC are great but cost to much to use. I am running them now with no issues to mention. On Rayls tip I bought these on the way home. It has to be a good tip...LOL he nailed the price....

I can tell ya right now we ain't having no Durango spank on a .2 No sir.... Do you have any other tires? If so ignore the rest of this post.. And try them 1st.

1. Make both diffs standard box stock. (Darn good starting point). I find if the front is suffering going in, less neg. toe and looser diff works. But it will suck on power coming out and I feel like I am forced to wait on it in the apex, Loose feel in the apex, pushy on power coming out. Depends on the tire of course. And driving style. Anything is worth a try and it may work for ya. But if not you will have to for sure put it back to standard before you try anything else.
I used to run suburbs soft rear and soft holeshots front this way and it worked well. I was running a 44. (Stock foams).

2. Lower front to 21mm. (Gets the wait down more in the front).

3. Stiffer front spring its easier than changing oil, if it helps then your oil or piston are an option or a stiffer front spring. (If your to soft Spring/Oil /Piston steering could be late on entry). Gotta find the sweet spot.


I like no drag brake myself and let the kit drive itself though the turn. It could be as simple as running the rear hub and battery all the way forward. Zero front toe can help??? So really look it over.
There's a bazillion scenarios, he could just be out driving ya in that corner? So it may better to concentrate on other parts of the track?
I run the same oil with 1.5/1.6 but I run 25/27 in the rear.

Let us know what you come up with or results from the changes.

I see that some have the 4mm battery conncectors facing the front of the vehice and some people have them facing the rear. Is this just a preference?

Hahahahhaha... I can't believe this didn't occur to me before. Thank you! That's great

Anyone here boil their "A" arms?

Harlan - I'm not sure if the plastic lends itself to boiling. I can tell you I boil the Mugen A-arms but it's a different kind of plastic. On the Mugen I boil the arms for 15 minutes and then let cool. Try it and see what happens.

Mark

what does the boiling do? and whats the difference between a "tight" and "a little less then tight" when it comes to the diff? how can i determine whats tight, less tight, and so on.

If you boil spares, it lets the ones on the car know who the boss is.

Its preference mostly. Less resistance with shorter wires or some thing like that started it I think. But a lot of racers have mixed match packs and the positive and negative wires are on opposite sides.

I'll give all that a go
Yes, I can try any tire for proline, aka, j concepts.
Our track is medium traction about 25% clay
I can drive his Durango and pick up .5 seconds
It has a ton more steering
I know the issue is in my car set up
I'll keep you posted

With a bit of practice you can stab it in split second. Razathorne tried it tonight. LOL he just popped the ball cup off and set his diff. If you get it cut and the burrs off just right you can stab it in a couple of seconds once ya get the hang of it.

Matt one upped on me with his handle... I am going to do the same thing. It was easier to get a grip on.... He cut the cup off and put some fuel tubing on it. I am going to tweak mine the same way.....

For me it is a hold over from using soft packs in 1/8th scale. The circuit board is usually on the side the connectors enter the case, so we would mount the connectors to the rear to protect the battery in the event of a nose dive. Not sure if this is such a big deal with hard case and the smaller car.