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Old 01-14-2013 | 08:54 PM
  #27421  
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Originally Posted by Flagler
Before you freak out on me, I searched what I am about to ask and I didn't find anything. It's probably there, but I didn't find it. Sorry.

I'm going to go ahead with the big bore spring conversion. I see people have been using the avid spring cups. Will the stock Associated 12mm spring cups work with the regular non-big bore shocks? They're like $15 cheaper.
not freaking out, but read the first page....it has the BB info.
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Old 01-14-2013 | 09:28 PM
  #27422  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
not freaking out, but read the first page....it has the BB info.
yup...there it is. Oh well. Thanks for the info guys. I bought the traxxas #3768. I saw someone dremel out the bottom of the cup a little bit to make it fit. It's the cheapest option so I'll be trying that.
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Old 01-15-2013 | 06:57 AM
  #27423  
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BB spring rate question:

Hey guys, switched to bb springs last week and was happy to not have any rubbing, shock felt smoother for sure just fixing that, surprised AE didn't do anything sooner about it but my question is if the spring rates on the std spring and the 12mm spring are comparable, or will the bb springs still act differently? I was running brown ft and green rear in std, felt good and now with ae 12mm green ft and white rear and the car feels better. Wondering how much of that was going to a stiffer rear spring or was it the big bore springs that helped. Next time out going to try green rear and play a little bit with the shocks. Just trying to learn them better even though the thing feels solid right now.
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Old 01-15-2013 | 07:01 AM
  #27424  
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well, you are not rubbing, so there is that. And from what I rear a wider coil has a different feel. So yeah. I was running green rear and brown or black fronts with a shorty. and whites in the rear with a full pack.
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Old 01-15-2013 | 07:09 AM
  #27425  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
well, you are not rubbing, so there is that. And from what I rear a wider coil has a different feel. So yeah. I was running green rear and brown or black fronts with a shorty. and whites in the rear with a full pack.
What are the fast guys at your track running? or even the middle of the pack guys?
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Old 01-15-2013 | 07:27 AM
  #27426  
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I went with those 12mm springs cause the fast guys start there, that or they will do green front and rear, but since I have a full pack 5300mah I went white. I also took the rear ballast weight out since I have a full size battery, also dont have any weights any where else. Run my battery with the thin foam up front.
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Old 01-15-2013 | 08:55 AM
  #27427  
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Originally Posted by 66Racer
BB spring rate question:

Hey guys, switched to bb springs last week and was happy to not have any rubbing, shock felt smoother for sure just fixing that, surprised AE didn't do anything sooner about it but my question is if the spring rates on the std spring and the 12mm spring are comparable, or will the bb springs still act differently? I was running brown ft and green rear in std, felt good and now with ae 12mm green ft and white rear and the car feels better. Wondering how much of that was going to a stiffer rear spring or was it the big bore springs that helped. Next time out going to try green rear and play a little bit with the shocks. Just trying to learn them better even though the thing feels solid right now.
Spring rates advertised are not correct, the dampers act different (far less stiction and 1.6 pistons have lighter low speed damping even though they pack up better), and springs aren't always as linear as you would think (the old springs had more coils and likely progressively became a little stiffer even though they are both linear springs). The old greens measured out at 1.95lb for me, and I now run green rears that are 2.0lb. That's not really that big of a difference. For me, when our track is dry, the whites are just too stiff.
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Old 01-15-2013 | 12:01 PM
  #27428  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
Spring rates advertised are not correct, the dampers act different (far less stiction and 1.6 pistons have lighter low speed damping even though they pack up better), and springs aren't always as linear as you would think (the old springs had more coils and likely progressively became a little stiffer even though they are both linear springs). The old greens measured out at 1.95lb for me, and I now run green rears that are 2.0lb. That's not really that big of a difference. For me, when our track is dry, the whites are just too stiff.
You kinda hit what I was thinking on the head with the amount of coils between the two. I haven't looked into this in a while (in 1/1 cars) but I thought less coils would have gotten harder through the stroke then the spring with more, leading to a more plush ride early in the stroke and then firming up near mid stoke. Just switching springs made the car feel smoother, I can imagine switching shocks too lol.

I also noticed white rear was a little loose on the dry track but thought it might have been the aka handlebars since switching back to the barcodes I got better but still loose traction, before I could change springs they blew the track off and fired up the mist system, getting the track back to normal.

I have read the guides and I'm trying to do a crash course in tuning so half the time I'm changing things (one at a time) without need just to see how it does on the track.
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Old 01-15-2013 | 12:27 PM
  #27429  
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my friend has a full set of rb6 big boars shocks could i run them on my b4.1 if so what do i have to do to do the swap i have worlds b4.1
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Old 01-15-2013 | 12:53 PM
  #27430  
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Originally Posted by 66Racer
You kinda hit what I was thinking on the head with the amount of coils between the two. I haven't looked into this in a while (in 1/1 cars) but I thought less coils would have gotten harder through the stroke then the spring with more, leading to a more plush ride early in the stroke and then firming up near mid stoke. Just switching springs made the car feel smoother, I can imagine switching shocks too lol.

I also noticed white rear was a little loose on the dry track but thought it might have been the aka handlebars since switching back to the barcodes I got better but still loose traction, before I could change springs they blew the track off and fired up the mist system, getting the track back to normal.

I have read the guides and I'm trying to do a crash course in tuning so half the time I'm changing things (one at a time) without need just to see how it does on the track.
The amount of progression is really minimal, as is the difference between the spring rates. If I recall correctly, when I measured the old springs vs the new springs, the new ones were more linear. Keep in mind that the new springs don't use the thick coating that adds to whole problem as well. All in all, it's minor differences.
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Old 01-15-2013 | 01:37 PM
  #27431  
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Originally Posted by josephc
my friend has a full set of rb6 big boars shocks could i run them on my b4.1 if so what do i have to do to do the swap i have worlds b4.1
Same mods that are needed for the associated shocks (spacers and/or Dremeled towers)
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Old 01-15-2013 | 02:24 PM
  #27432  
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Default Big Bore questions

I have 2 questions about the BB's?!?

1: Is everyone using the .90 black spacers at the tower F & R and the TWO Silver spacers on the rear on the arm per instructions?? It seems to lean the shocks, and I cant find a pic where the team guys are using them?

2: Also with BB and pics of the team guys....The oring in the shock cap?!? I dont see anyone using them, I am building brand new BB's for the first time now and the oring slips behind the screw when tight....

Thanks for any and all help!!
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Old 01-15-2013 | 03:34 PM
  #27433  
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Originally Posted by jnorwood_losi
I have 2 questions about the BB's?!?

1: Is everyone using the .90 black spacers at the tower F & R and the TWO Silver spacers on the rear on the arm per instructions?? It seems to lean the shocks, and I cant find a pic where the team guys are using them?

2: Also with BB and pics of the team guys....The oring in the shock cap?!? I dont see anyone using them, I am building brand new BB's for the first time now and the oring slips behind the screw when tight....

Thanks for any and all help!!
I used a black spacer on the front tower. On the rear tower i used the front shock bushing with a silver shim up top and 2 silver shims on the arm. Since the front bushings are longer than the rear.
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Old 01-15-2013 | 07:16 PM
  #27434  
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Originally Posted by jnorwood_losi
I have 2 questions about the BB's?!?

1: Is everyone using the .90 black spacers at the tower F & R and the TWO Silver spacers on the rear on the arm per instructions?? It seems to lean the shocks, and I cant find a pic where the team guys are using them?

2: Also with BB and pics of the team guys....The oring in the shock cap?!? I dont see anyone using them, I am building brand new BB's for the first time now and the oring slips behind the screw when tight....

Thanks for any and all help!!
I relocated my shock tower as you can see here, perfect alignment.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11608730-post530.html
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Old 01-15-2013 | 07:44 PM
  #27435  
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Originally Posted by BillPear
I relocated my shock tower as you can see here, perfect alignment.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11608730-post530.html
Nice!! This belongs on the main post of this thread! Im gonna have to remember this if the "new" shock towers dont align the shock this good
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