Hello there , in advance sorry for the long post.

Santa Gave me a SC10 4x4 FT for christmas, my last SC track and first RC was a slash 4x4, in wich I spent a lot of money but never felt comfortable with.

Anyway I built it , move the electronics, mmp, castle 3800 . and I just fell in love, what wonderful suspensions , handling, I missed the center diff, but was not so bad then ...

The rear diff started clicking, shim problem, I fixed with a rebuild kit and extra shim, but also noticed that the diffs always leaked, after like 5 packs. the maintenance process started to become a little bit painful, specially when you need like 8 hours for every practice day.

Then the upgrade process started, exotek chassi and front locker, Hotracing Aluminum diffs and idles, strc bellcrank and rear arm-mount, tenshock 4000k sensored motor, I spent like 12 hours just cleaning, disassembling and putting in the new parts.

I proved and spend another 6 hours trying to figure why the hell my rear trasmission was stuck, I meant not fully stuck , so I found the problem was that I over tighten the rear transmission case screws.

Finally to the track, the chassi and motor improvement fell really nice 1 pack, and totally lose the front traction, 4x2 mode. checked and front pulley and clicker just began to slide, I checked and pulley and clicker are alright , and I tried to over tighten the clicker but no luck.

So again I will need to spend another 4 or more hours disassembling the front.


So my point is I love the car, I love working on my RCs, but when you spend like 8 hours in maintenance and fixing for every 1 (or less) on the track, it just doesn't feel right (With my mugen eco it is just the opposite) .

Anyway I just want to express myself. btw I attached a few pictures.

mind did that when the gear on the front shaft or whatever its called came free. locked everything up in the front.

As for the +8mm mod ... Can't really be confused when you actually try it and see how it performs first hand. Is what it is, which is why anyone curious about it, give it an actual try and see.

indybobb: can you give your setup a try with the same settings, but without the riser on the hub and adjust the camber link position to same on the hub as the riser, as well as the middle position (assuming you are using the inner position) and report back?

Thanks Cain, you were right, the gear in the top shaft was out like 4 mm of the expected position. I locked it and also put some thread lock just in case. crap I really hate when this thinks happend.

You will really need a power driver to speed things up... I think most guys here are down to about 1/2 hour for diff swap (complete dis-assembly not required).

Ok thanks for the info! Did you try the 8mm mod with the m2c toe block together? I have both installed right now and was curious to try it at a big event next month. It will be an indoor large sized track and was hoping to improve rear traction.


I did forget to mention that I have the exotek rear hubs on now. According to the manual. You have to install 3mm of shims to the inner ball stud to achieve stock roll center.

I'm a big fan of the Exotec product and their support, but I would not be inclined to try the 8mm mod with their hubs because it will require 11mm of spacers underneath the ball stud (8mm + 3mm), and that's a lot of leverage. IMO, just asking too much of the ball stud under a bending load when you smack something.

Seen a bunch of posts on fixing the rear diffs. I blew out mine within a 1/2 a pack on my first run. This is on a FT SC10 4X4. AE was cool enough to send new sun gears.

I don't want to same thing to happen and read a ton of threads on this, but what is the correct way to build the diff? Build per factory manual and add limiters to the shocks? Do the limiters go inside the shock bodies or on the shafts near the bottom where the connect to the arms?

Should I use the factory inner shims again?

Thanks.

I didn't see your question answered so I will take a shot at it.

While adding an aluminum wheel would lower the center of gravity, it would have a negative effect on your suspension performance. It would increase the unsprung weight of your suspension and make the trucks suspension less active. The heavier your unsprung weight is relative to your sprung weight, the more the vehicle will want to deflect as opposed to the suspension deflecting (absorbing).

Hope this helps

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_mass

I have a friend at the local track that blew a rear diff and now when he puts the truck back together he is also noticing binding.

Sounds like the top shaft in the rear gear case is the most likely culprit? What exactly is happening? Missing one of the 91017 4X4 top
shaft spacers or is the splined portion of the shaft 'walking'? Any other things to look out for besides over tightening the gear case?

Subscribed! Just got.one if these and really want to know where you put the limiters as well.

sofa you left me thinking about it, and it is true, I need like 25 mins to get to the transmission. duhhhhhhhh I can believed.....

Cain: unfortunately I thing I will need a new front top shaft, I tried to fix it but after a little while the gear just get free again.

Interesting tidbit that might have been posted a millions times. I measured by factory inner rear diff washers to the ones provided in AE's rebuild kit 91007. The new ones are much thicker.

Original: 0.22MM

New from rebuild kit: 0.52MM

So they must have found a problem.

Wow this isn't right at all. With the new shims you can hardly get the pins in. And when you do you can't turn the outdrive. Way too tight!!

Yea it's tough to get it just right. Even when I put a couple shims in, it's tight but the shaft spin freely. I've noticed my shims have actually bowed upwards

Tom

have BK coming to TRCR real soon.
Promise a video explaining the mod so everyone will be on the same page with the 8 mm camber mod..