What if I told you I cut my ballast weight in two using only one dremel cut-off wheel. 1/3 and 2/3 sized pieces made. My hands are numb.

WOW, that's nuts-LOL! Some times you gotta do what you gotta do.

Why didn't you use a hacksaw? On the other hand, as long as it worked

There goes the neighborhood.

LOL real men use hack saws.... He's not right...

I race with this chuckle head. Were going to be able to get some good info on set ups now that he FINALLY got a 4x. And we are going to have some kick AZZ racing. I absolutely enjoy racing RAZ. If you put the 2 of us on the track in 4x its going to be a darn good race. Him and I have shared the lead in quite a few races.

The best part is he knows a lot about setting up a kit. What makes it so much fun is his set up will be way south of mine,,,,,,LOL He drove my kit 6' last night and just about flipped....LOL he hated it..... I think he will be a great asset to the our quest for perfection on our kits to say the least.

Yeah but totally skipping the .1....

I have been glueing tires for about 2 years with no prep work to a rim or tire at all. I have yet to have one come off. Actually I have tires that I retire because the tire will rip away from the glued bead from the hard corners in high traction but they are still glued just fine.
Make sure you have good fresh glue is the biggest thing I have found.

Great videos. Got a question. Is that normal wear on ur actual cvd? Looks like it has been rubbing pretty bad.

No argument here... As long as you know the difference of the different methods.
I use Zap. Its pretty good. If its clear its good, if its starting to yellow or get oily looking it wont hold. Been down that road. I have some racers edge than I think would glue water to the oil.. I used to be a hard core 1/8th scale racer where tire gluing is very important. 1/10 scale is a lot more forgiving.

Club racing not a big deal. But if your attending a big race you may want to do some serious tire gluing.

I feel your A game starts with your tires. Every thing is set up and depended around them. Heck if you don't worry about the tire holding why worry about a shock seal or a ball cup. None the less if you don't go the extra mile at least once you wont really know the difference.

You guys would really laugh at my weights,local hobby shop did not have the FT weight so I took .25 ounce weights trimmed and stacked them in the factory spacer and added 1 on each corner of the top deck. The only problem with this is I came up a little short on the total weight,but it works.I will try and post pics later.

Boy I wish I had a good answer. I may just let mine run its course and keep an eye on several other kits at the track. But its obvious some thing is happening there.

If you can bevel out the diff nut the ball of the CVD is relieved I know that. Or you could shim your CVD 2 on one side 2 on the other, This may be the best all round fix? That may fix it but you will want to check the droop if try that. Don't let the drive pin get to close to popping out of the out drive.

One thing I neglected to point out in the steering lock vid.
I was about to say its just par for the course and just roll with it. Then I realized when it locks up it wont unlock by the strength of the servo. It binds to bad it holding the compression of the spring and the strength of the servo in a full turn and compressed position. It takes a hit our a bump of the kit to get it unstuck. So we started dealing with it more closely. I can't try any track results till Tuesday to see how it goes. But at least we can keep it from locking up.

I run a Lrp tc spec v1 and lrp x-20 8.5 geared with 21 on a med to hight bight large indoor track and run consistent 23-24 sec lap times with the record being in low to mid 22's from some of the best drivers in the state.now that I have got the car dialed in its time to go to the 6.5 to try and shave off that last one to two seconds.

Okay but remember you said we would laugh. We could use a good one.LOL I would like to see a pic.

I have ran mine for 2 months now and show no sign of wear at all on the cva.only the polished ring where it hits the outside of the drive,maybe it is more related to track conditions,I have never seen my suspension that far bottomed out.

I fixed mine by simply adjusting my radio,and it seems to still turn enough.i think I am at 87% on the side that locks and 95-100% on the other?