I had a protek 150T seize up on me while breaking in my engine. 3rd tank of gas and I finally put it on the ground to do some small circles in my tekno nb48.3, about two minutes into that and my steering servo locked to one side and wouldn't move. Brand new servo, running on 2cell lipo. Called Amain, they are gonna cover it under warranty which is nice.

So, I Continue breaking in engine with buggy sitting a top my starter box, idleing some tanks through the motor and then my throttle servo which is also a protek 150T Stripped out my throttle horn... Do these things have too much torque for 1/8 nitro ? I was gonna buy some $70 savox initially, but Amain talked me into getting the protek 150T instead, said they would last a lot longer. Also I noticed my steering servo was getting get hot, I was using the aluminum servo horn, is that normal ? I've had RTR cars ten years ago that had servos that lasted longer than these

The 150 series is no joke. You should make 100% sure you set your EPA's and that your horns are not loose at all. Any slop will simply accelerate the wear. I prefer clamping horns any time I can use them.

when using them on a tekno nitro buggy 48.3, how should the horns be secured? I just used the bolts supplied with the kit. I Did not use any thread lock, even though it is metal to metal contact. On steering I used the bolt from the kit for the aluminum horn and the horn set screw. On the throttle horn I used only the bolt that came with the kit, should I be securing the steering and throttle horns a different way ? What do you mean when you say clamping them ? Do you have a picture for an example

I'm talking about a clamping horn vs a non clamping.

Tekno makes these: https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-r...r5253b/p479552

Gotcha. I was using the same thing for steering, just the one that came with the protek 150T servo. Do you use thread lock on the screw that actually screws down into the servo and holds the horn on? I think it is an M3x10mm size screw