RC10B4.1 FT/WC
I got them for the sole purpose of easy removal. I finger tighten them and break them loose with my wheel nut driver.
Those who use the JC battery hold down nuts, is it worth anymore than the AE ones? I lost one of my hold down nuts for the AE ones as the vibration caused it to come off while running, but was debating if I should get the JC ones or not. Also any tips to keep the AE ones locked down would be nice.
but I like sportsman classes better lol
hey guys...i bought a set of b4.1 worlds shocks for my Arrma ADX-10 as an upgrade since they length and diameter were almost exactly the same but have never built shocks and i get most of what is in these packages but putting it together will be my first and i have the parts list from AE's site but there isnt anything close to help me put it all together and obviously not the RTR shocks with the cartridge in the bottom of the shock body but was wondering if anyone has a link or vid that shows me closely what i need to do. I guess my biggest thing is using the right pistons that came with the sets and the b4 my buddy has weighed 2.8lbs and my arrma is 3lbs but want to run the right oil weight, pistons, and springs...
Here is what i have found for a break down and here are all my parts...Cant wait to get these installed....Thanks in advance guys!


Here is what i have found for a break down and here are all my parts...Cant wait to get these installed....Thanks in advance guys!


Here is the Video from Associated on how to build the shocks. I watch this before I built shocks for the very first time and it made it so much easier

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-hU6B9Z62hw
[QUOTE=Razathorn;11649860]I beg to differ on that.
Drive that new shuei, even better lol...
I drive anything new and different ,I will be pain till they let me try.
Both still are loose on exit
B4 has better
Drive that new shuei, even better lol...
I drive anything new and different ,I will be pain till they let me try.
Both still are loose on exit
B4 has better
Put the C hubs on my car tonight back to back with my B44 "A" hubs.
JUNK.
It did *exactly* what I expected--lowered my roll center TOO far and caused the car to stage coach on hard corner exits. I'm already at zero washers on my shaved u-brace with the A hubs--the highest rear roll center I can get. Felt exactly like when I had one washer with the A hubs and needed the roll center to be a little higher. I gave the C hubs a real chance too lower lap times and it just made them worse--I had to wait on the car everywhere to get on the throttle. Tried for 5 minutes to get lap times similar to my A hubs and I was always around 2/10 off per lap. It felt better in some places, but no different than when I ran with another ball stud washer on the A hubs, and definitely at the expense of much more valuable corner exit speed.
Every track is different, and your mileage may vary, but even the guy I borrowed them from was like "run em if you like, they suck," and my experience was no different.
Wayne
JUNK.
It did *exactly* what I expected--lowered my roll center TOO far and caused the car to stage coach on hard corner exits. I'm already at zero washers on my shaved u-brace with the A hubs--the highest rear roll center I can get. Felt exactly like when I had one washer with the A hubs and needed the roll center to be a little higher. I gave the C hubs a real chance too lower lap times and it just made them worse--I had to wait on the car everywhere to get on the throttle. Tried for 5 minutes to get lap times similar to my A hubs and I was always around 2/10 off per lap. It felt better in some places, but no different than when I ran with another ball stud washer on the A hubs, and definitely at the expense of much more valuable corner exit speed.
Every track is different, and your mileage may vary, but even the guy I borrowed them from was like "run em if you like, they suck," and my experience was no different.
Wayne
It's gotta be your track because in the last 2 years Not once have I been at an indoor track and liked A hubs... No grip in corners... C hubs go on and the car is locked.. Always
Put the C hubs on my car tonight back to back with my B44 "A" hubs.
JUNK.
It did *exactly* what I expected--lowered my roll center TOO far and caused the car to stage coach on hard corner exits. I'm already at zero washers on my shaved u-brace with the A hubs--the highest rear roll center I can get. Felt exactly like when I had one washer with the A hubs and needed the roll center to be a little higher. I gave the C hubs a real chance too lower lap times and it just made them worse--I had to wait on the car everywhere to get on the throttle. Tried for 5 minutes to get lap times similar to my A hubs and I was always around 2/10 off per lap. It felt better in some places, but no different than when I ran with another ball stud washer on the A hubs, and definitely at the expense of much more valuable corner exit speed.
Every track is different, and your mileage may vary, but even the guy I borrowed them from was like "run em if you like, they suck," and my experience was no different.
Wayne
JUNK.
It did *exactly* what I expected--lowered my roll center TOO far and caused the car to stage coach on hard corner exits. I'm already at zero washers on my shaved u-brace with the A hubs--the highest rear roll center I can get. Felt exactly like when I had one washer with the A hubs and needed the roll center to be a little higher. I gave the C hubs a real chance too lower lap times and it just made them worse--I had to wait on the car everywhere to get on the throttle. Tried for 5 minutes to get lap times similar to my A hubs and I was always around 2/10 off per lap. It felt better in some places, but no different than when I ran with another ball stud washer on the A hubs, and definitely at the expense of much more valuable corner exit speed.
Every track is different, and your mileage may vary, but even the guy I borrowed them from was like "run em if you like, they suck," and my experience was no different.
Wayne



