SC10 Thread Part 2
#2206
If memory serves they were bought, and some of the better products carried over to the new name. A lot of companies were bought out, and it seems the best stuff that each company had to offer stayed in the line up, plus a bunch of new stuff that kicks arse. Happens with everything these days. Tower owns Durango, Horizon owns Losi, Thunder Tiger owns AE, Disney owns Star Wars, etc.... Good stuff is good stuff no matter what the name on the sticker says.
#2207
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 576
From: Broomfield
I had the same problem with the electronics that came stock on the SC10 RS. I initially fixed it by setting the speed control to forward + brake with no reverse. A buddy on mine got a SC10 RS a few months after I got mine. He had the same cutout problem and thus we had to disable his reverse as well. When I got the RTR SC10 4x4 I didn't wait around long enough to see if the same things would happen - I immediately set the stock speed control to forward + brake.
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Hey guys! Was browsing the forum and kinda chuckled when I saw this. I just bought my SC10 about a month ago, and had the exact same problem with it right out of the box. After buying it, I got home, took it out of the box, charged the battery and within 5 minutes of playing with it I started having the exact same problem that you're talking about. But it didn't even have to be a big jump or anything. It would just cut out whenever it felt like it. I was playing with it on the street right in front of my house. I actually took it back to where I bought it from the very next day. ( Hobbytown USA). They tried a new radio, that didn't work. They tried a new receiver, and that didn't work either. So they put a new esc in it and that didn't work. They tried many different combinations of things to try and get it work, but it just kept having the same issue. The only thing they didn't try was putting a new motor in it. They actually just wound up giving me a whole new boxed up truck. That was about a month ago and I haven't had a single issue with it, with the exception of the normal wear and tear and abuse that we put these things through. I know this probably doesn't help you much, but at least it lets you know that you're not the only one having that type of issue. By the way, mine is the 2wd version. And it was RTR. Hope that helps shed a little light on the subject. Good luck, hope you get it figured out.
I realized this when reading the esc manual when switching the programming to forward+brake only (no reverse). So thanks to the guy that recommended that, I had 0 issues after turning off reverse. There is nothing broken after all, the issue I had was just the esc working as intended in forward+reverse mode.
#2208
I figured out why the truck was stopping after jumps and on other occasions. The RTR SC10RS kit radio is setup with forward+reverse by default. In order for reverse to engage the esc stops power momentarily so the truck comes to a stop. What was happening to me is, when jumping the doubles, I hit the brake in air to control car attitude (dip the nose down). The esc thinks I am trying to engage reverse so when I land I didn't have power for a second. It also happened when using the brake to bring the rear end around in turns.
I realized this when reading the esc manual when switching the programming to forward+brake only (no reverse). So thanks to the guy that recommended that, I had 0 issues after turning off reverse. There is nothing broken after all, the issue I had was just the esc working as intended in forward+reverse mode.
I realized this when reading the esc manual when switching the programming to forward+brake only (no reverse). So thanks to the guy that recommended that, I had 0 issues after turning off reverse. There is nothing broken after all, the issue I had was just the esc working as intended in forward+reverse mode.
#2210
#2211

Currently I run 31mm F/R. Sometimes I run 29/31 or 30/31, just depends.
#2212
I've got an original SC10 (rtr) lightly upgraded with cvd's, silicone filled gear diff, 10.5 Novak, and STRC front knuckles, hubs and rear hubs. It still gets around quite well considering the lack of maintenance it gets. I was thinking of adding the rear sway bar and some proline shocks. Thoughts on the sway bar and shocks, or anything else I should consider to help the truck a little
#2214
Ok so sway bar not needed. So AE big bores over the proline shocks, can get the prolines a fair bit cheaper
#2215
#2218
Cheers in advance
#2219
I'm running the V2 shocks with the box/manual piston setup with the Avid 12mm spring conversion and the Avid Yellow springs F/R.
Running AE 35wt front/30wt rear.
I run on a medium grip surface, can go from really bumpy to really smooth in one lap. Truck is dialed, very good. First three races out with it I won a 5 race winter points series (2 drops in the series). Very dialed for me.
Running AE 35wt front/30wt rear.
I run on a medium grip surface, can go from really bumpy to really smooth in one lap. Truck is dialed, very good. First three races out with it I won a 5 race winter points series (2 drops in the series). Very dialed for me.
#2220
I'm running the V2 shocks with the box/manual piston setup with the Avid 12mm spring conversion and the Avid Yellow springs F/R.
Running AE 35wt front/30wt rear.
I run on a medium grip surface, can go from really bumpy to really smooth in one lap. Truck is dialed, very good. First three races out with it I won a 5 race winter points series (2 drops in the series). Very dialed for me.
Running AE 35wt front/30wt rear.
I run on a medium grip surface, can go from really bumpy to really smooth in one lap. Truck is dialed, very good. First three races out with it I won a 5 race winter points series (2 drops in the series). Very dialed for me.




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