Originally Posted by huzzler

Just wondering,you guys running the shorty packs in 17.5 class. Do you leave the weights in the rear? I run full packs now and I have ballast weight and 1/4 oz each rear triangle. I have tried removing the weights and the car just loses alot of traction. So I guess what I'm trying to say is the whole point of running the shorty is to reduce weight and improve handling right? So to me it wouldn't make sense to run the shorty without weights. As far as handling with the shorties,I don't think I can get my buggy to handle any better than it is now its awesome. Guess I should maybe try and borrow one and try for myself.

Originally Posted by Gene158

I've only run the buggy twice so far and both times I used a full size pack because that's all I had. Can't complain about the way it handled but I have nothing to compare it to so I'll see how it is with the shorty. I just hope I didn't waste my money on the shorties.

Originally Posted by zipperfoot

Speaking of motors, i have been running a Tekin 13.5 in my buggies for over a year, and a x12, 7.5 for even longer. How long do motors last? Do they lose power over time? Do they need a rebuild? I am not that good that i can sense an under performing motor, but i love to upgrade/rebuild if needed.

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

when they lose their smoke, you need to replace em. Unless you can find a way to put the smoke back in

Originally Posted by idrummerboy13

I had my orion 7.5 in and it had very little punch. I threw my 10.5 back in and got more low end and more control. Suddenly I was pulling very fast laps, I just need to get to the track on a more consistant basis...but dont we all

I was using green slicks and boy I couldnt stop the wheelies. I am going to try and loosen up my car...

Originally Posted by zipperfoot

Speaking of motors, i have been running a Tekin 13.5 in my buggies for over a year, and a x12, 7.5 for even longer. How long do motors last? Do they lose power over time? Do they need a rebuild? I am not that good that i can sense an under performing motor, but i love to upgrade/rebuild if needed.

Originally Posted by Cain

Initially I would have said its your servo saver (stock assembly) letting go but you did say you have the avid steering block.

To me at least, is it possible that your servo itself is having issues? Anyway you can try a different brand servo?

Originally Posted by Scrubb

Its sounds like your your front tires are touching part of the front suspension and are locking up. Set your car on a car stand, free spin the front tires, and turn the front tires left and right with your controller. Are the tires rubbing on the suspension causing them to lock up? If they are, something is assembled incorrectly (I would check and make sure the black plastic spacer is correctly behind the castor blocks - a common mistake that would cause that, the second is that the left and right castor blocks are on the wrong sides).

Originally Posted by 66Racer

Im guessing by your location that is your OCRC setup? I just got back from practice and am pretty happy with how its driving, currently Im more focused on just putting down a ton of laps to get practice in but I cant help but want to try adding a 3rd limiter in the front (i still have v2 shocks).I have to double check my shock mount but everything else is the same. Would the 3rd limiter make a big difference in on throttle low speed steering? I get a slight push still but learned to work with it. If I can get a little more throttle during the slow sharp turns at ocrc I think the setup I have would be perfect.

I have already messed with the diff, I think its just that the rear is so planted its moving all the weight to the back. oil and springs seem good everywhere on the track, I dont think I wanna change the green rears but was thinking of going to a 30wt in the back or try the 3rd limiter in the front shock. Would appreciate your input.

Originally Posted by Jmnay_83

I was wondering what motor you guys are using for mod buggy? I have been out of the whole electric game for the last five years or so since brushless and lipo packs have really came into the scene. Any help would be appreciated. Oh and I am using the new lrp flow esc.

Originally Posted by mashimarowu

Doubt its my servo... I have the savoc 1257 if you were curious and it is fairly new.



By front tires touching suspension, do you mean any part of the front A arm that could cause the wheel to stop moving on full lock? If so, then no, my wheels are not locking up, I have my endpoints adjusted so that doesn't happen. This is a stock RTR car that I have slowly upgraded myself, so my castor blocks are on the right side and I checked and also my spacers are in the right place.

Originally Posted by BRSracing

If you have checked everything for smooth movement and the end points on the radio are set your servo is most likely the issue. At our track I have seen a fair amount of issues with savox servos, even newer ones. I know most have to run a capacitor on the recevier with the savox. The capacitor has solved most issues.