RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Hello I am new to the b4.1 buggy and need some information.I am using the v2s shock s .on the shock piston their is a number 1 thu 3.howdoes that work? The bigger the number the bigger the piston holds?and to get more side bite do you raise the rear camber link?
Thanks for the help from a new racer...any set up information you give me will help thanks.
Thanks for the help from a new racer...any set up information you give me will help thanks.
Hello I am new to the b4.1 buggy and need some information.I am using the v2s shock s .on the shock piston their is a number 1 thu 3.howdoes that work? The bigger the number the bigger the piston holds?and to get more side bite do you raise the rear camber link?
Thanks for the help from a new racer...any set up information you give me will help thanks.
Thanks for the help from a new racer...any set up information you give me will help thanks.
The smaller the holes the more 'pack' it creates when the shock compresses it which better for smooth tracks and/or big jumps).
The bigger the holes creates less 'Pack' which is better for bumpy tracks. The car is more stable and has more traction in the bumpy sections and it won't be thrown up over sharp bumps.
Hope this helps
While the topic of wraps are still getting tossed around, I am selling Chassis wraps to help support my hobby a little better, if interested hit me up.. Only is one person so far, so let me know.
Thanks.
Also since I'm sure I wont post until I need some more help..
Merry Christmas
Thanks.
Also since I'm sure I wont post until I need some more help..
Merry Christmas
So I took my new buggy to the track today and for the most part was very happy with it. Took me a little bit to get used to as it's my first 2wd buggy but I started to get the hang of it. The only problem I was having was with the rear end; it had no traction. The buggy was sliding way too easily and it wasn't my driving because I had one of the employees drive it and he had the same issue. He tq's and wins the stock class almost every week so it's definitely not his driving either. The slipper seems ok, not too tight, not too loose and I turned the punch down but not much change. I'm also running m4 suburbs, the most common tire at my track. I had the same guy take a closer look at it and he said the rear end is sitting way too high; the rear arms actually a tad above level. He suggested using a larger anti-squat shim for 3.5 degrees to get the rear end down. Can I just stack the anti-squat shims? He also suggested adding some rear toe. Without buying new hubs, can I just use one of the different arm mounts to add some toe in?
I'm running the standard setup with the exception of -2 degrees camber front and rear (suggestion from another driver). The buggy seemed to push quite a bit in the turns as well, that is when it wasn't spinning out lol.
I really want to get this thing dialed which I know takes time but I want to at least start heading in the right direction so I'm really looking for some more input on setup. The track is smooth, wet, slippery, indoor clay.
I'm running the standard setup with the exception of -2 degrees camber front and rear (suggestion from another driver). The buggy seemed to push quite a bit in the turns as well, that is when it wasn't spinning out lol.
I really want to get this thing dialed which I know takes time but I want to at least start heading in the right direction so I'm really looking for some more input on setup. The track is smooth, wet, slippery, indoor clay.
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Bored, so I took some pictures. Car is still covered in astro/rcp fuzz, so it looks a little odd. Tired of blue. V2's>Big Bores on astro.



Still need to buy a new MyLaps so I can dremel the chassis, put the transponder in front of the servo, and re-do the wiring on the RX side of the car. That and a Lundsford screw kit and I will be happy.



Still need to buy a new MyLaps so I can dremel the chassis, put the transponder in front of the servo, and re-do the wiring on the RX side of the car. That and a Lundsford screw kit and I will be happy.
So I took my new buggy to the track today and for the most part was very happy with it. Took me a little bit to get used to as it's my first 2wd buggy but I started to get the hang of it. The only problem I was having was with the rear end; it had no traction. The buggy was sliding way too easily and it wasn't my driving because I had one of the employees drive it and he had the same issue. He tq's and wins the stock class almost every week so it's definitely not his driving either. The slipper seems ok, not too tight, not too loose and I turned the punch down but not much change. I'm also running m4 suburbs, the most common tire at my track. I had the same guy take a closer look at it and he said the rear end is sitting way too high; the rear arms actually a tad above level. He suggested using a larger anti-squat shim for 3.5 degrees to get the rear end down. Can I just stack the anti-squat shims? He also suggested adding some rear toe. Without buying new hubs, can I just use one of the different arm mounts to add some toe in?
I'm running the standard setup with the exception of -2 degrees camber front and rear (suggestion from another driver). The buggy seemed to push quite a bit in the turns as well, that is when it wasn't spinning out lol.
I really want to get this thing dialed which I know takes time but I want to at least start heading in the right direction so I'm really looking for some more input on setup. The track is smooth, wet, slippery, indoor clay.
I'm running the standard setup with the exception of -2 degrees camber front and rear (suggestion from another driver). The buggy seemed to push quite a bit in the turns as well, that is when it wasn't spinning out lol.
I really want to get this thing dialed which I know takes time but I want to at least start heading in the right direction so I'm really looking for some more input on setup. The track is smooth, wet, slippery, indoor clay.



